Hello william_pric,
Look on the speaker output terminals to see if there is an indication, usually a line between the positive (+) on one to the negative (-) on the other, with the word "bridged". If the bridging terminals are not indicated, you can always try one of the positives and the other negative. If there's no sound, it must be the other two terminals. Just be careful that you don't short the terminals, and don't crank the volume up without the sub connected. Some amps don't like an infinite load.
For an input to the amp from a stock OEM radio, your best solution is to use a "line out converter", connected to the rear speaker wires. The
PAC SNI-45T shown in the link is one such device. This one includes a "remote turn-on" lead for the amp. You could use a cheaper LOC and just run 12V from an accessory lead on the truck. In this case, the amp will turn on and stay on whenever the ignition switch is in the "on" or "accessories" position. If this is objectionable, mount a SPST switch somewhere convenient and wire the turn-on wire through it.
Hope this helps.
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