Electrolux door alarm Won't stop. We open door to turn off alarm. Temp seems right but slight condensation at the very top of the fridge. Need to at least disable alarm until I can get a repair.

the front feet under the door opening are adjustable screws. You may have to use a shifter to get them to move as they mat be rusted . adjust so the fridge slopes slightly to the rear. This keeps any moisture on the back wall to drain out the hole and the door will close if left open

in order to solve a problem you need to understand how the device works. ideal for sensing the status of appliance doors
whether in the open or closed state (or for internal light). in the door under insulation (not visible) is a permanent magnet which switch on or off reed switch (usually on electronic). when the door is closed, the permanent magnet close or open the reed switch, depending what kind of switch is, normally open or normally closed. electronic received that information and because that (open door) stop the cooling fan. so, in your situation i would like to check that door is not hung up for some reason or try use an external permanent magnet. of course, reed switch should be checked also, because sometimes contacts may remain closed.

see the pictures below,

dado

Hi Clair, thank you for allowing me to assist you.

When the refrigerator is beeping or buzzing, it may be a warning sign of a possible malfunction or an unsafe, interior temperature. To silence the buzzer, you can depress the ALARM OFF button. However, if you have already done this, try unplugging the unit or flipping the household circuit breaker for about ten minutes.

If the alarm continues, it could possibly be experiencing a communication problem with the temperature control/board or wiring failure. I would recommend connecting with a professional appliance tech for a clear-cut diagnosis.

On the freezers a setting of 7 or 8 should do fine. I would be more concerned with the defrost timer, defrost heater, and settings. Also a HUGE problem is that the door switch on the top center of the door can sometimes barely contact the door (this happens when a unit is slightly warped or out of level) or the spring loaded hinge on the door can break causing the door to stay propped open at times. When the door doesn't close the evaporator fan stops but the compressor will continue to run. I have had to tape a nickel on top of the door to make better contact with the switch. Make sure the switch isn't the problem before going any further.

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4588788-refrigerator_or_freezer_not_cooling_or

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Hi, It likely will tell you in your owners manual, but if you push & hold the alarm button it should stop after several moments ( I think it may actually be 30-60 sec.) That should reset the alarm. However, if the thermistor senses the temp. to be too warm the alarm will return. Hope that helps, let me know. Good luck.

My wife solved it for me :-) You turn the alarm off with a switch at the bottom. The alarm turns off, but the light stays red for another 4 hours. After that the red light goes off too, and you can turn the switch back on without the alarm going off, if the freezer is back to operating temp.

You need to check the temp in the freezer to make sure it's down to around 10 degrees. The alarm will go off much above that.

Basically they needed to supply an additional door mount for the left hand side of the door as well as the right hand side. Problem now sorted. Poor instructions in the manual didn't help here!

hector...this sounds like icing up! First thing is to defrost this unit. The ice is preventing air flow over the coils. Shut down and get warm air to the coils. Then, let everything dry. If you leave off and open for 2 days, this will do it. Causes: humid conditions, 'window shopping' or bad gaskets. If the gasket surfaces are dirty, clean them. Test any questionable areas by taking a 2-3 wide strip of paper and close the door on it. If the paper pulls easily, the gasket is bad.

Now, clean out the condenser coils. They are located in the back or under the unit and are always painted black. Then, have a look at the compressor. It is that big black thing in the bottom with pipes sticking out of it. Look at the larger pipe. When you start the unit, it should frost and then either dry off or condense water after about 5 minutes. If it stays frosty or is not cold, you need gas. If the unit passes all these tests, you may have a defrost timer issue. Let me know.