I am following instructions and I am removing the rod and it will not come out. I have tried pulling hard and short firm tugs. Any suggestions

This may be helpful:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&ved=0ahUKEwib-vjWo4HPAhUS5mMKHQqFBJ4QFghHMAc&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.empisal.co.za%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F02%2FEOL-4D-Instruction-Manual.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEyQGCGMvjXwTjOR8JHacxAL1WHJg&cad=rja

It may not be the same model, but similar machines pretty much thread the same way. FWIW, always RAISE the PRESSER FOOT when threading. This releases the tension disk and allows the thread to seat firmly. When pulling thread through the tension disk, give each an extra little tug to confirm it is seated.

Also, if there is particular order which thread to thread first, follow the instructions every time or your machine may not work. Overlockers are finicky. Also, if a thread breaks, it is usually better to remove all the threads and rethread from the beginning. Trying to fish a thread through out of order will generally end in failure. In this manual, the pink (upper looper) thread is threaded first, then the yellow (lower looper) is second, then the needles.

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There are 3 screws holding it in place and you have only removed the 2 bottom ones.

I've never worked with a Neff appliance before, but generally, a firm tug will remove the element and a replacement can be firmly pushed in and all systems are go after that. The built in does not have to be pulled out. I suggest you take a look at the owner's manual or call a repair shop in your area that services Neff. If they have the part, ask them if the element can be remove by simply pulling it out.

you jack it up and remove the axle bolt and and tie rod end and slide old one out and new one in old one may be kinda hard to pull out from age but give it a tug it will come out then installation reverse

I had the same problem. It normally opens with a little tug on the door but if you are like me and you let it fill up with a year's worth of pet hair etc., the door will jam. The only option is to give it a firm tug. I would suggest that you make sure that you apply even strength to both sides to prevent breaking your unit.

Beofre you go to the extent of buying a replacement canister, you can remove the top and using a straightened coat hanger type thing open that bottom lid. Then maybe you can clean the rim and possibly add some silicone spry to loosen things up. Here's how to get inside In this order: 1) Remove the canister 2) remove the three star screws at the top of the canister. It'll take a bit of pressure to pull the top up, there's a rubber seal. When you pull it up there will be a rod running down into the canister, leave it be, just pull up the top high enough to clear out any debris. 3) Use a straightened coat hanger and with a flashlight to guide you, reach down with it and push it into that hole down at the bottom center of the canister. That will pop the lid open. Clean the canister & lid rims, maybe add some silicone. At this point you might as well clean the canister too. OPTIONAL-> ***leave the bottom lid open*** and follow the rest of these steps 4) Put the top back on aligning the screws, when you lower it make sure the bottom of the rod engages with the hole at the bottom center of the canister, this is why you left the bottom lid open. Put the three star screws back in. 4) Turn the canister upside down, lid open, and keeping in mind this is thin plastic, gently tug upwards on the four fins that surround the bottom rubber seal. This part is held in by friction, so work your way around the four fins gently pulling until you work the ring they're connected to free. This will give you access to the inside of the canister. 5) remove the round perforated section by tugging upwards on it, set it aside with the fin part. 6) Take the canister to a laundry tub or large sink and holding it bottom up fill it with hot/warm water. Grasping the center section shake it vigorously and turn it upside down while shaking and a bunch of sh*t will come out. Repeat several times. 7) Dry thoroughly, you might use a hairdryer held to the center tube, but only if you can switch off the heat and use air only. Make sure its 200% dry, water will kill your machine 8) clean and replace the round perforated section 9) replace the fin section, I'd suggest pulling the round rubber part off of the fin part and setting it in place on the canister first, then follow with the plastic fin part. If you don't do it this way the rubber won't seat properly and the bottom lid won't close. 10) Close the lid, replace the canister, and staaaaaart suckin like it's brand new.

The latch on the gate holds and locks itself on a peg on the floor panel. These are adjustable and after time can move causing the problems you have now.

You may have to get in the boot / trunk and remove the inner panel to access the lock internally to open but try this first:

Pull up latch handle and keep holding it up until open, shoulder firmly the backdoor as if you are trying to close it hard, it should click, then pull open.

Open the rear door and look for 2 pop-off caps on the suspected tail light assembly covering philips screws. If you remove both screws, the tail lightassembly becomes quite loose.

The last step is to give a firm tug, directly backward. The whole assembly is held in place with three small plastic clips (round cone shaped devices pushed through holes in the rear body work with a rubber "washer" protecting the paint).

You have to pry them loose from their insertion mounts to remove the assembly. A firm tug works well, but don't pull to the side or you may break the clip (or clips), and then have to replace those too. Once you've pulled the assembly off, the lights are easily accessed and replaced.

To reassemble, simply reverse the process.

[Note: there is no cover for the bottom screw on the rear door hinge side. It is exposed. There are two possible bolts on the bottom side of the door; the one for the tail light assembly is the one you can remove with a philips head screw. It can be accessed by opening the door and fitting a screw driver through the opening behind the door.]

Google a business called The Parts Drop and give Britt a call, He can give you a price and most likely send you the directions.
If he can't provide me an E-mail address and I can type out the directions on how to change it. It not hard. I suspect the cost in the $150-$200 range.

My fan has no screws. You simply twist and tug the globe (firmly but easily) and find that it is held on by three "tension clips" that hold the thing in place.

If you are nervous, have someone else get on the other side of the ladder and hold the fan steady while you twist/tug the globe with two hands.

I did it by myself but I would have liked another pair of hands holding the fan steady while I gently but firmly tugged at the globe.