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If it is belt driven it could be that the belt is not moving to the smaller diameter pulley for the slower speed. But the unit is new so I would just return it for an exchange at the store it was purchased from. It is new - the heck with a repair - just get another one!
my last two washing machines, totally different brands and types, did the exact same thing. It must be a new way of setting them up, I don't understand either. I can't get straight hot water. My new one does seem hotter than the old one I had which was very distinctly hot then cold then hot then cold even on hot hot water.
Problem new or old? How long you have unit? Sounds like not enough flow to keep burner on. Tankless need at least .6 gpm to keep hot water flowing or else the burner fires then shuts fires then shuts and you get a sandwich effect...hot cold hot cold. If you have new diverter valve in shower -vs- old two handle type try turning hot water ALL the way ON and see if hot stays hot. If it does stay hot then slowly adjust to cool and see if you maintain a good MIX for proper temp. If it goes cold again try this......LOWER control pad setting to a comfortable 105 degrees (ladies) 100 degrees(men) and turn shower valve all the way to HOT. See if your temp remains consistant now and if it does then problem solved. Tankless mindset...set temp on control pad and stop trying to MIX at shower valve. Thats how these things work. Thats why I install a control pad in each bath and one in the kitchen for adjusting ash temp during dishwasher on time. ditto for wash machine. You should never need to turn on cold water if your unit is set to proper temp at controller. Hope this helps
Sounds to me as though the external cooling fan is not working.
As it is brand new, I would advise you to contact the people that sold it to you, you have the right to insist on having it replaced if it is faulty, and under 28 days old.
Make sure you have fully charged AC sytem first, if so Im sorry to tell you this but this is a difficult deal.you may not be able to correct this without taking it to a repair shop with gm scan tool. Reason being the actuators for the hvac that most likely are malfunctioning from either them or another component being bad , require recalibration.The other reason would be the body control module related.It would have to be scanned for U codes which can effect the hvac control.Sorry but thats what I know.
I may not be of much help but I may be able to guide you into some diagnosos. If there is a communication problem between the inside and outside unit, both on the inside and outside units a colored LED will bling 5 times then pause for 3 seconds. The 33 and 44 codes are confusing to me because I have never seen this. Try resetting the outside unit with no call for heat or cool from the inside unit. After about 20 seconds, restore power to the outside unit. Go in and turn on the remote and make sure you lower the cool setting more than degrees cooler than the room temp. After 3 minutes the outside unit should turn on. If you get an error code of either 1, 2 or 5 blinks document it for the technician. If you continue to get your 33 and 44, you have a bad control board.
If all else fails, press and hold the button located on the lower left side of the art unit and hold for about 5 seconds. If it still no longer works, now you will need the help of someone who knows these units.