My unit has no ozone smell after close inspection I noticed a burnt resistor on the power supply board, where can I get a schematic for correct resistor size?

That unit is a very heavy duty machine that uses ionization to clean air. There is a high voltage power supply that is used to generate ions. The unit can release ozone and that substance has a definite smell to it. If you have ever been near a copy machine or an electric motor that sparks, you would smell ozone. The concern is whether or not it is ozone. Ozone is regulated by the manufacturers to be held at a permissible level because at high concentrations it is an irritant and can cause respiratory issues by itself. The power unit for that air cleaner is on the top near the back and you can run the machine for a while to see if that area gets hot. That would be a bad sign. All the documentation is here: http://electronicaircleaners.com/f50f1032parts.aspx But if you don't trust the unit, take it or send it back.

TEST THE CONTINUITY OF THE BULB AND THE WIRING AND THE PARTS INSIDE.


DOES THE UNIT STILL WORKS NORMALLY ASIDE FROM THE BULB?

it's possible that the ozone generator inside has gone bad. The only way to really know is to remove it from the unit and then test it with a power supply w/correct voltage of coarse. You will smell the ozone immediately if it works upon testing. (clean fresh smell) If it does need replaced, it's an easy fix for anyone with electronics knowledge. You will need to match up the numbers to get the correct replacement. Many are available on Ebay. Always disconnect the power to the unit before taking it apart. Hope this helps, Dave

Your ozone generator may have gone bad. It's the small black rectangular looking apparatus located near the bottom of the unit. It usually has a zip tie holding it to the circuit board. You will have to take the Flair out of it's case to see it. Make sure it's unplugged and remove the bolt from the bottom of the unit. You can then slide the framework out of the casing. It's also possible that it's time to replace your Ceramic Ozone Plates. They have a life expectancy of 2 to 4 years. The Flair has two of them that slide into slots in the rear of the unit. You can see them when you remove the washable filter. All items can be purchased on Ebay. DM

if you pull the unit out of the black box ( one screw on bottom) and then turn the unit up side down, their is a glass fuse in it. See if it is blown, their is also a fuse just for the ozone part it is marked F21 on the same board, it is soldered in the board, it is a black round fuse marked 400ma 250v on some models

pull the unit out of the enclouser and check the bottom for a circuit board and on the board their is a glass fuse see if it is blown. Also on that same board their is a small round black fuse that is labled f21 it is a 400ma 250 volt fuse on my unit and is soildered in this fuse is just for the ozone

You probably have a burned out high voltage transformer. That's what produces the ozone. Helpful hint...........the high voltage transformer is also the one used in bug zappers

When the unit is clean it will produce more ozone. If the unit is a bit oversized then it becomes worse. As an installer I have to be carefull to not oversize these units. O3 is harmless and actually will only stay in the air as O3 for about 1/2 hour. Because of this it will not build up in the air. O3 also in a powerful disinfectant and will help kill mold and bacteria in the air. As soon as the filter gets a little bit of dust on it the O3 production will become much less. Run your fan continuously for a day or so and it will go away.

The Classic XL-15 should have 2 individual indicator lights. The 'red' light is the ionizer indicator, and the 'green' light is the ozone level indicator. Both lights should be illuminated, if the unit is operating properly. The red light should be pulsing, and the green light should be dimly lit, and brightened as the output knob is turned up - indicating a higher ozone production. If the green light is not lit, you likely won't smell the ozone. The first thing you should try, is cleaning the filter and glass ozone plate. Unplug the unit and remove the rear air filter. Clean the filter with clean water and allow to COMPLETELY air dry. Removed the glass plate by depressing the lever behind the glass plate, and gently pulling it out. Clean the glass with a half water, half ammonia (or distilled white vinegar, if ammonia not available) and an old toothbrush to clean between the mesh. Dry plate with a hair dryer and re-place plate into unit. Replace dried air filter, making sure the little tab on the bottom is secured into the interlock. Power the unit on and you should see the indicator lights and smell the fresh ozone!

You can pull off the rear filter, pull the ozone plates, defeat the safety interlock, turn the unit on, and place a screw driver (holding the plastic handle) one one of the ozone bars, and try to make an arc between the screwdriver and the other bar.

If you get an arc, the ozone plates are dirty. Clean well with a brush and sudsy ammonia. If no arc, either the hv transformer is bad, the main circuit board is bad, or the ozone control is bad.

There's one other thing you can check: The two wires that connect to the ozone bars can arc to the chassis sometimes. You can inspect the insulation on those wires to make sure it is intact.