How do I fit legs made from same 25mm square tube as top section from moving from 90 degree angle as I weld ?

a^2 + b^2 = c^2
a squared + b squared = c squared, where c is the length of the hypotenuse, and a and b are the lengths of the other two sides in a right-angled triangle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAkMUdeB06o

Anytime you weld something or even tack anything together, your joints are going to move some. You could position your pieces to compensate for this or you could clamp them down. But no matter what, when that weld puddle solidifies, it will pull and the stresses exerted on your work piece can be pretty high. If you can't clamp it in place to minimize movement, try tacking one spot on one side, then--using a your favorite hammer--influence your piece back straight and tack the other side. Once you have solid tacks that are going to hold your piece as square as you can make them, then weld it out, alternating sides and direction of travel. Of course minimize heat input as much as possible. Travel speed has more to do with heat input than amperage or voltage in many cases. Its a little hard to give you specific recommendations on your project without knowing more about your set up there. So tack, straighten, tack, straighten, tack straighten and so one...then weld it out.

Footrest/legrest come made with different angles. Their are standards of 60, 70, 80, and 90 degree angles. The lower the number the more the footrest/legrest stick out from the chair. You would need to put an angle gage on the angled tubing and get your angle before knowing what you might be able to get. There are also adjustable angle legrest that can be adjusted as needed without using any tools.

To square up a mite saw blade, you need to eeither move the table or adjust it to be square if it is out in the mitre angle, or if it is out in the bevel angle the whole saw head needs to be adjusted, and this is done via the bevel adjustment at the back of the saw. There may be a bevel stop bolt to return the saw back to 90 degrees if moved to a different bevel angle. Usually the blade itself is not adjusted bu either the saw table or the bevel angle of the saw head itself to correct these issues.

A standard square is used primarily for drawing 90 degree angles. Simply hold the fat side of your square firmly against the length of rafter. The skinny side of the square should be lying accross the rafter, forming a 90 degree angle with the side. Use a pencil to draw a line along the edge of the square and use this line as a guide while sawing the rafters.

Assuming you already know the angle you require, take the edge with the level on it(if you have that model) or the side that hangs over and hook it on the edge of the board. If you look at the top, on the 90 degree end, it says "pivot", and that is where you will spin the square around. You read on the 45 degree end that was hooked to the board for you angle. If you are trying to cut a rafter at a specific pitch such as a 6/12 you will spin the square around until the 6 on the Common scale lines up with the edge of the board. The Hip/Val scale is for cutting hips and valleys for the roof structure.
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Bob

Most jointers can be set beyond 90 degrees. This allows boards to be beveled at angles over 90. There should be a locking handle or lever to hold it at the angle you want. If you want 90 degrees, adjust it to a framing square and lock it.

They make pipe benders for you application. They are quite inexpensive. If you want to do it your self you can. Remember the total number of degrees you want is 90. Each cut is half the angle. Example 45+45=90. 30+30+30=90. and so forth.

I don't know your application but they sell larger radias 90 degree rigid conduit elbows at Home Depot or Lowes.

Inside the saw, on the end of the trunnion is a stop that is adjustable to zero the saw in to exactly 90 degrees. Either there is sawdust or something accumulated there or it needs to be adjusted. You say you cleaned it out, So you'll need to unplug it an have a look up in there. See how there's a geared piece of steel that moves when you crank the saw over to 45 degrees. Usually there's a bolt or stud with a locking nut on it, either on the trunnion itself or the lower surface of the table top. You need to break the nut loose and screw the bolt in or out to adjust, then crank the saw over to hit it, check for square with a known square, crank it all the way out of the way and readjust, etc. Until you get it right. Make sure to tighten that lock nut when you're done.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!