Left side power board blown.Can it be repaired/replaced and where.

pull out screws on top panel fold out to see if fuse is blown on back of board if so replace unplug all auxs mark them then plug in 1 at a time if fuse isnt blown need new PCB board check voltage at tranfsformer also if voltage to board transformer ok the salt has its own transformer

Hello,
Problem is in either power supply or the Y-Sustain board.
The Y-Sustain is a relatively large board out of which go connections to the side of the display; it's therefore closer to either the left or the right side of the display, has at least one rather large heat sink on it and fat power cables connecting it to the main power supply.
Often there are fuses on that board - one or more. Check those.
if they are blown you can try to replace them, but expect them to blow again - usually the whole board needs to be replaced. Hoping that this will help to solve the problem....

Hello,

Problem is in either power supply or the Y-Sustain board.

The Y-Sustain is a relatively large board out of which go connections to the side of the display; it's therefore closer to either the left or the right side of the display, has at least one rather large heat sink on it and fat power cables connecting it to the main power supply.

Often there are fuses on that board - one or more. Check those.

if they are blown you can try to replace them, but expect them to blow again - usually the whole board needs to be replaced.


I hope this help in solving the problem....

Sorry... you likely have one of the power amp channels bad as well. One does NOT replace the power supply, instead repair it. You need a competent repair shop. I can tell you what parts are blown on the supply. They cost about $30 max for parts to repair the power supply. There usually is about $15 of parts blown on the amp that caused the problem and significant labor to repair the amp portion. If the smoke was dark or heavy, it was likely from the 0.03 ohm metering resistor on the bottom of the amp circuit board that caused the original problem. If one replaces the power supply and turns power on they will find one side of the amp doesn't work and MAY blow the power supply again immediately. I have repaired several of these units and have walked others through the repair sequence as well. You can contact me directly by email for more info if you need it. Unless you can find a competent repair shop that replaces components, including work on surface mounted boards, the cost of the module parts AND availability will preclude repair. The amp module is another $155 after the power supply is repaired if a channel is bad and one chooses to replace rather than repair.

No, that is NOT what the problem is.

The fuse protects the power supply. The power amps have failed. The usual cause is an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. The labor to repair the power amp module is extensive. I have repaired several.

You can find new amp modules and I would purchase a new one and drop into your unit. The amp module is an HCA2400.

There is probably $15 of parts blown in each side of the power amp and it takes about 6 hours to repair. One has to grind out the burned area (internal layers not necessarily visible on surface) and re-insulate and then install jumper wires to replace those taken out.

Each side of the amp will likely take out 3 switching MOSFET transistors and often a Zener diode. Sometimes a low resistance metering resistor will be fried with smoky residue underneath the board. When this happens two small surface mounted resistors will be blown open. Great care has to be taken when insulating the board damage and replacement of the blown circuit traces.

You can find HCA2400 power amp module replacements for about $175 online.

Use of the unit as an unpowered mixer is a bit dangerous as if arc re-establishes it can fry the power supply taking out two very expensive IGBT's and many other components. If the mixer still works, then your whole power supply is still OK.

Call for warrenty repair,the power supply board it dead.The components call capacitors it dying and leakage of gases.

Sounds like blown invertor board that powers the backlights (if it is LCD or PLASMA). If your lucky and its just the invertor board blown it could cost anywhere between £50-£150 for new board (without labour).. if you are UN-Lucky, then the backlights themselfs may have blown which is *usually* an un-economic repair.

Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
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Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

• Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
• Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
• Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
• Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
• Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
• Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
• Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
• Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:

• PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
• There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
• Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
• I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
• Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
• Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
• PD0073 SIGNAL Board
• Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
• Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10

• Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
• Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
• Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
• Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
• Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

Take a look inside your tomtom go . The photo's uploaded are of the GO and Go 300 / 500 / 700 series so yours might not look exactly the same but will be similar to these. SEE PHOTO of the IC's highlighted RED. U24 is on the same side of the circuit board as the card reader. U25 is on the same side of the board as the power socket. These are the 2 chips / IC's that will be blown if reversed supply or more than about 6 volts has been applied. The blown components are usually blown due to attaching the WRONG charger or a faulty charger. ( the tomtom cigarette lighter leads often go faulty ) These IC's are very very small ( just 3.5mm across ) and the 10 pins ( 5 on each side ) are even smaller and very close together therefore normal soldering ability will not allow a novice to replace them. Special soldering irons are needed , magnifying glass or special microscope for electronics + a steady hand and good light. Its highly unlikely that a home repair is possible. Besides that , even engineers with years of soldering experience have great difficulty replacing these components and it often takes me 30 minutes just to replace one of these IC's and I have a steady hand. Most normal electronics repair companys cannot repair this type of component as they will normally deal with bigger things. So unfortunatly, your "corner of the street" TV repair shop won't be able to fix it for ya either. As far as I know TomTom don't repair these IC's either as its too fiddly and time consuming and for them not worth the effort. Your only hope is one of the repair people offering this service on online . Try a look on ebay under "faulty tomtom" .

Had the identical symptoms with my Whirlpool Gold GS6SHEXNB00 side-by-side refrigerator. Had a technician come on site, indicated it was the "circuit board/ timer" (Whirlpool part # 1394052). Board is accessible from behind fridge (lower left side in a white plastic housing to left of compressor).

Swapped the board out (noticed a scorched circuit on the old circuit board). Lightbulbs now work, temperature readouts also good to go.