NEED MANUAL FOR THE ABOVE MENTIONED ICE MAKER URGENTLY.

I would agree with the the last poster just one final thing to check make sure the bottom of your fridge in the back of your fridge is dust free dust builds up on the condensers and they get blocks and they don't work as efficiently and also make sure there's the correct space between the back side top and bottom of the fridge according to the specifications I don't have them with me but you should have them in your user manual if you have one.

Sound like it is the dual water control only. Try filling ice maker with tap water and then let freeze. If after the ice in the ice maker dumps the cubes into the ice container and does not refill I would think the water control valve is at fault. I see your model had three different choices of water control valves and listed on this page=> Here and in right sidebar about 1/3rd down the page you will see three different water control valves. Here is your Service Manual=> LG LFX25960ST Stainless Steel French Door Refrigerator Try this test first because you mentioned no water in trays. Let me know what results you get and if you have more questions feel free to ask, Thanks, Sea Breeze

OK you mentioned the ice maker had no cubes or not making cubes, try filling tray with water from tap. Let freeze and if the ice drops into ice bin the ice maker is OK. Most times the ice maker thermostat is at fault (pt. 27 in photo) if not cycling. Read OHM's between both coils and they should be very near to same reading, if not replace water control valve=> 4389177 by applying first 120VAC to see if valve opens. If water goes into ice maker this way or OHMs between the two are nearly the same your Ice Maker=>2198597 Ice Maker Assembly may need replaced. If you would like to rebuild your Ice Maker here are the part Breakdown view=>
GS5SHAXN Ice Maker Replacement Parts

Let me know how your ice or water turns out, Thanks Sea Breeze

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

First off check the freezer door switch for operation. Depress the plunger and make sure the light goes off when the door switch plunger is depressed. Light stays on = bad door switch / no ice production as the door switch provides power to the ice-maker when the door is closed.
Additionally in your case make sure that the evaporator fan is running at full speed. A slow running evaporator fan will cause the freezer compartment cooling to suffer.

Another thing that can cause the freezer temps to start rising is dirty condenser coils in the bottom of the unit. Make sure that the coils are free of lint and that the condenser fan is running at full speed. Usually when there is a problem with the condenser coil air-flow the cabinet of the unit will be VERY warm to the touch on the front in the door seal area. It is supposed to be warm.... just not VERY warm.

Here is a link to the steps on how to troubleshoot an ice-maker.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

Let me just add that many ice-maker related problems are due to the freezer temp rising above 16 deg F. The freezer starts warming up due to ice build up on the evaporator coils and then the internal air-flow is blocked by the ice build up causing the temps to rise. Look closely at the back of the unit for any signs of ice build up.
If you see ice build up......
1. Unplug the unit
2. Remove the freezer contents
3. Place a fan directing air into the freezer for just over 2 hours. (Water mess!)
4. Clean up the excess water and restart the unit. (Add freezer content)
5. After 8 - 10 hours check for NORMAL ice production.

If after doing the above you have ice NORMAL production then most likely you have an automatic defrosting problem.

If it still does not make ice, the steps in the link above will isolate what has failed in the ice-maker.

Before testing the ice-maker using the steps in the link.. I recommend you peform a manual defrost with a fan. If 8 - 10 hours after the manual defrrost you do not have ice production,, use the link and troubleshoot the ice maker.

Here is a 2nd link for ice-maker troubleshooting that includes testing the optical system of the ice-maker:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf

Your ice-maker parts and refrigerator can be found here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5135173&diagram_id=28114824#d28114824

The above link goes directly to the ice-maker but, using the diagrams on the left side of the page it will bring up all other sections also if you click on them.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

First off check the freezer door switch for operation. Depress the plunger and make sure the light goes off when the door switch plunger is depressed. Ligt stays on = bad door switch / no ice production as the door switch provides power to the ice-maker when the door is closed.

Here is a link to the steps on how to troubleshoot an ice-maker.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

Let me just add that many ice-maker related problems are due to the freezer temp rising above 16 deg F. The freezer starts warming up due to ice build up on the evaporator coils and then the internal air-flow is blocked by the ice build up causing the temps to rise. Look closely at the back of the unit for any signs of ice build up.
If you see ice build up......
1. Unplug the unit
2. Remove the freezer contents
3. Place a fan directing air into the freezer for just over 2 hours. (Water mess!)
4. Clean up the excess water and restart the unit. (Add freezer content)
5. After 8 - 10 hours check for ice production.

If after doing the above you have ice production then most likely you have an automatic defrosting problem.

If it still does not make ice, the steps in the link above will isolate what has failed in the ice-maker.

Before testing the ice-maker using the steps in the link.. I recommend you peform a manual defrost with a fan. If 8 - 10 hours after the manual defrrost you do not have ice production,, use the link and troubleshoot the ice maker.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Should have started to fill soon after freezer section reaches between 0° to 2° F (-18° to -17° C), ice maker fills with water and begins operating. You will have a complete harvest of ice approximately every three hours. The above was in the user manual and only answers when the process begins. There is a thermostat embedded inside the ice maker that tells the water control valve for ice maker to open for approx. 7.5 seconds. Because this model has a freezer below the left fresh food section light switch has an interlock that completes 120VAC to the ice maker once the fresh food section door is closed. Defective fuse, door switch or ice maker will make operation impossible until the problem is located. Please let me know if you need assistance beyond the above here.
Thanks, Sea Breeze

That is what is commonly known in the biz as "Shelling". This is cause by low water pressure. Probably a clogged water filter or worn out water valve, kink in supply line. That sort of thing.
The water should fill for 7.5 seconds. If all of the above mentioned is good then the ice maker itself could have a problem between the copper plate mounted under the main drive wheel and the probe that makes contact with it at the end of the harvest cycle.

Ice maker manual and more HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Here's a link to the manual from the Rival site. You mentioned 1.5qt, so here's a link to that manual.

http://www.rivalproducts.com/manuals/MANUALS/GC8151-WN_43_32757971.PDF

If that's not the correct model, follow this link and scroll down until you see the correct model you have...

http://www.rivalproducts.com/help.aspx?helpNav=5

adjust the cooler control

A manual may be found here -

http://www.amazon.com/Rival-8704-W-4-Quart-Electric-Cream/dp/