Just replaced a main drive belt now running in reverse

The belt on an 8925 should not have any twist. If it has been twisted the brushroll will go backwards. Install a new belt and make sure it will spin freely with no twist in the belt.

Need to replace both drive and roller brush belt. Can't just replace one even if the other is fairly new.

I had the exact same problem with my Hoover U6485-900 Anniversary upright, self propelled, vacuum. It would move backwards and forwards, had good vacuum, but wouldn't pick up much because the brush/roller was not turning very well. I replaced the main drive belt (38528035) and it now works great. The old belt had stretched and was slipping under load. Thanks for the great suggestions.

Dear Sir:
Download the instruction manual from Kirby, and see the section troubleshooting guide. And proceed according. If you say do not enough power. The batteries can be Not good replace or recharge very well.
Or test the power cord and trafo, and see if the power is o.k or replace. Use the VOM for to test the output voltage.
Another faulty can be the motor some winding inside is overheating and consequently faulty.
God bless you

Instructions1 Place the riding mower on a level surface and set the emergency brake. Open the engine or tilt the seat back to gain access to the battery. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket. Turn off the main fuel petcock valve from the tank to the carburetor. Set the attachment clutch in the "Disengage" position. Set the motion control lever to neutral. Place the mower deck lift lever in its lowest position to drop the deck.
2 Pull the belt against the engine drive pulley, then pull upward on it and slip it off the pulley. Unclasp the small clutch retainer spring from the pulley bolt. Detach the big retaining spring and then slide the collar sleeve off. Shove the housing guide out from the br
3 Pull the retainer springs off that hold the rear suspension arms to the rear mower deck bracket. Disconnect the front link arms that hold the front of the mower deck to the chassis. Pull the lift lever to put the suspension arms at full height.
4 Slide the mower deck out from the bottom of the tractor. Tilt the mower deck and prop it up with wood blocks. Use a stiff cleaning brush to remove all mud, twigs and grass clumps. Wipe the top of the deck and undercarriage with a rag.
5 Un-thread the belt from around the idler and mandrel pulley. Place the new belt around the mandrel pulley and idler pulley first, then stretch it up to the drive pulley and loop it into the pulley grooves. Make sure the V part of the belt rests inside the pulley.
6 Use the lever to raise the suspension arms on the deck. Push the deck back under the tractor. Lower the suspension arms and replace all the retaining springs in reverse or the order in which you removed them. Slide the sleeve back into position and secure it with the spring. Reattach the spring to the anti-sway bar. Shove the housing guide back into its bracket.
7 Raise the mower deck with the lever. Reconnect the negative battery cable with a socket. Turn on the fuel petcock valve. Start the engine and engage the main drive lever. Test-drive.

THanks

turn the belt over - rather - if it is a figure 8 configuration, reverse the direction. if it is in a straight configuration, it needs to be in a figure 8

You will need to look @ your owners manual to see where the self propell belt is located i am sure yours is broke and need to replace,- it will not be hard to replace-Lance

There is a panel on the side for belt access, open this and inspect your belt. Usually replacing the rubber belt will fix this problem, as the belt from the main motor is what drives the water pump unit. (The cogged belt in the front is what drives the brushroll, but if the rubber belt isn't functioning properly the brushes generally won't turn either.)
If the rubber belt seems ok and the brushes are turning either you have soap clogging the lines, or your pump has gone bad.

Flushing out the water lines can help clear a soap clog, but to effectively do it requires disassembly of the lower chassis. Both this procedure and pump replacements in these units are a nightmare because all of the rubber hoses running around in the machine have a tendency to get pinched closed on reassembly, so if you do disassemble your unit, be very careful to align all of the hoses so that they are not crimped upon reassembly.

-R

There is a cable that connects to the handle and goes down to the powerdrive transmission. It is visible at the actuator arm on the drive if you look at the bottom of the handle where it pivots on the main housing. It will be on the right hand side, front corner of the handle bottom. You should be able to see the cable connected to the arm of the drive and will move back and forth with the top handle. Sometimes, they break at this connection. The cable may be frayed and broken, or the acuator arm may be broken where the cable connects.
This could also be a simple worn belt problem. The roller is always rotating in a direction that pulls the machine forward and if the belt is worn, the roller will turn sluggishly but still enough to pull forward, but the belt also drives the transmission and a worn belt will not have the capacity to overcome the forces involved to propel the machine backwards. Always change the belt(s) yearly.(on average)

Hi There, Is it the main drive belts from the motor to the tech drive? If it is the are very easy to replace by taking out the tech drive. If it's a belt inside the tech drive unit you will not be able to buy the belts anyway as they are classed from kirby as a sealed unit. Hope this helps Chris www.elidistribution.co.uk