Cannot remove brake and drive tube assembly

not sure what your saying about back bottom but sounds like your washer transmission is leaking possibly? see pics if you look at transmission you will notice a tiny black like rubber pc. like a weep hole used a a fluid fill port and it may be leaking from there sorry could not find the right pic of it under the clutch assembly

belt mayb

This assumes that you have a KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again.

The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged
the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Assuming that yours is one of these, the washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

When re-assembling the washer, make sure that the tabs on the drive tube fit into the slots in the drive block.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If necessary, Whirlpool makes a replacement set of brake shoes for these washers Part # 64232 (see page 14 of the parts list PDF.

You probably have a faulty heating coil, or thermostats.
If you plan to repair it yourself, remove the back of the machine, locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside of the air tube is where you will find the heating coil, and thermostats.
Check your heating coil with a continuity meter across the two terminals.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If everything else works OK, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

Check the video at the following link. I think you will find it helpful. Hope so and best wishes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc

does it agitate?check your coupler.

I have Serial # CF2467934 Model # 92588210 Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Heavy Duty 80 Series. The top agitator is stripped out, how do I take it out to replace it?