How to adajust the water temperature on a thermostaic valve # 34124

problem in the coolant temperature sensor, fuses , relay or ECM

Don,

there be should be a knob (typically red in color) on the front of your water heater, with temperature degrees listed. The knob should also delineate a typical range of settings for domestic use, which range from 120 degrees to 160 degrees. While a hotter setting will allow an increased amount of warm water, for example for longer shower duration, these temperatures can present a risk of scalding and require more energy to maintain the selected temperature.

EJ

I recommend safety changes to prevent ruptured water heater and assorted leaks.
135 degree hot water.
Maybe replace TP valve if it is dripping.
Drip pan under water heater with 3/4" drain line to outside.
Expansion tank on incoming cold water line to absorb pressure build-up, and prolong life of tank and plumbing.

Here's why:

1) Yes you can have scalding hot water.

2) I recommend 135 degrees since that will burn the evil right out of ya. And generally kill clothes washing bacteria.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

3) 150 is dangerous and can seriously burn skin in 1.5 seconds. Not safe around children and elderly.

4) Temperature settings on electric water heater are approximate, since thermostats are calibrated approximately, and read temperature through tank wall.

5) Also if you want to increase amount of hot water for high-consumption household, then setting tank temperature upward is one solution since more cold water is mixed with hot, so amount of hot inside tank goes further.

6) High temperature can cause TP valve to release water.
TP valve is pressure-temperature safety valve. Do NOT cap off.
Rating should be 125 psi and 180 degrees ... but all things water heater are approximate, and TP valves need replacement now and then.
It is not recommended by water heater manufactures to use 150 psi TP valve when water heater came with 125 psi. Rating shows in small print on end of TP. New TP valves sold at local hardware. Let tank cool before installing new one.

7) Higher temperature and high pressure can rupture tank.
Pressure over 80 psi shortens life of water heaters and plumbing fixtures. Put BTG100 pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to check pressure.

8) You need a drip pan with 3/4" drain line to outdoors, or to drain vent line, to prevent flood caused by ruptured water heater.
Turn water heater off when going on vacation.
Inspect water heater each 6 months.
Drip pan available at local home center or hardware:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#drip

9) Heated water expands and puts pressure on tank and pipes.
Water does not compress... so when water gets hotter it expands against tank wall and against pipes.
Especially in closed system (check valve present) when system is without expansion tank.
Expansion tank is installed on incoming cold water line.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#expansion

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I suggest check coolant levels, fan radiator is workign there? Thermosta clogged or engine temperature sensor go to bad.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Never seen one of these cars but if in doubt ask a local mechanic to have a look for you ,in the heater hose feed to the heater could be a electric solonoid type switch that opens the valve inside the water pipe housing that the solonoid sits on and it could somehting wrong here like either the solonoid isnt operating or no power being sent to it from the climatic control computer or the plunger inside the housing is stuck ,use a mechanic recomended by a friend or relative to check the type of system ,The parts are or can be expensive and i have removed the automatic valve and fitted a tap with a manual cable from a bicycle gear change before now but i cannot recommend this as although it works other people who answer questions on here are altogether happy with some of my cowboy jobs ,but i used to be a fleet fitter with lots of own company vehicles not a dealer fitter and the owner was a refugee from a concentration camp in poland and he didnt like spending money ,an under statement to say the least

You may have a build up on the valve,which is constricting the water flow. Sometimes you can take them out and clean it. Or you can replace it with a new one. The other problem might be your water heater. Does the water come out hotter in other faucets in yout home ?

Sounds to me the diffusor is stuck or broken in the position to allow only hot water through it.Looks to me tou have a mixer valve on it. Might have to replace it.

Check that you did not put new thermo in backwards. Thermo goes in with sensor bulb toward engine block (spring toward engine.)

it is on the cylinder head water pipe!

Hello there
The Water System temperature sensor is normally what is wrong with these units with this condition that you are experiencing
The water system consists of the hot and cold water inlet valves, a water temperature sensor, a water
flowmeter and control and the dispenser distribution system along with a traditional pressure switch.
Water Inlet Valves -
The hot and cold water inlet valves are located at the back of the washer. These valves receive a control
signal from the Central Control Unit to manage the temperature of incoming water. The temperatures
are determined by the specific wash cycle selected and a temperature sensor located in the wash tub.
To improve cleaning of heavily soiled clothing and to provide a sanitizing feature, the water temperature
can be increased through the use of a heating element located in the bottom of the tub