What causes the motor overload protector to kick in.

Hello
If your washing machine is cutting off after only running for a few seconds, it could be due to a few different issues:

1. Overloading: If you have too many clothes in the drum, it can put too much strain on the motor and cause it to shut off. Remove some clothes and try again.
2. Clogged pump: If there is an object stuck in the pump or the pump filter is clogged, it can cause the machine to shut off. Clean the pump and filter to see if this resolves the issue.
3. Overheating: If the motor is overheating, it will shut off to protect itself. Wait for the motor to cool down and then try again.
4. Malfunctioning motor control board: If the motor control board is damaged, it may cause the machine to shut off. Have a professional diagnose and repair the issue.

If you're hearing a slipping noise from the belt, it could indicate that the belt is loose or worn and needs to be replaced. This can also cause the machine to shut off if the belt is slipping too much. If you're not familiar with repairing washing machines, I would recommend contacting a professional for assistance.
have a nice day

check pump for blockage.........

cheers

The most likely causes for water not to drain is either a plugged drain system or faulty water pump.

Please look here to refer to what i'm talking about:
Servicing the Water Pump

Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:


©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Take the pump apart and clean
away all debris inside the pump.
Also clear away debris from
the water tubes.
Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.

Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.

Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.

Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.

Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.

Servicing the Motor

In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

For more: go to: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-washing-machine6.htm

Sounds like the motor is not engaging. Or the agitator is stuck.

Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.

Servicing the Motor

In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Tub and Agitator


©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Replace a damaged agitator
with a new one of the same type.
Unscrew the cap on top of the
agitator and pull straight up;
the agitator should lift off.
The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.

The agitator -- the finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.

Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.

If the machine doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.

Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.

Dear usaguitarman Welcome to fixya.com
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,

You said, washer fills with water. then the motor overload protector starts clicking
in and out.and there is a burning smell. I am able to spin the water back out.
The belt needs to be replaced but I don't know if that could cause my problem.

Yes I believe the belt could be the problem!
That is more than likely the burning smell!

Change to belt.!
While your at it, unplug the machine for 5 minutes or more and then it will reset the system too!

Let me know how wonderful it performs after these repairs!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i believe you will be fine!
Bless You,
Huuum
Please do not forget to enter a rating when you are done.
Thank you

Could be a bad overload protector in the motor. Some machines have a circuit where the machine rapid advances to the end when the motor overload protector kicks in. This would also make sense that it started happening in the Spin cycle when the motor draws the highest voltage.

there is a thermal overload protector in the motor. After the motor cools it should restart. There is an off balance switch that might have been tripped when pulling out the comforter or when bailing out the water. As for the belts, tip the machine back and you will see the belts underneath the washer. Very easy to change and you'll see what I mean when you see the belts. That should solve your problem. AND DON'T OVERLOAD THE WASHER AGAIN.

The overload protector is in the motor. Once it heats up, it trips. You likely have something not moving to cause it to trip. Pull your washer forward and tilt it back to about a 45 degree angle. (it will rest against the wall behind it instead of falling forward) Remove the belt and rotate all 3 pulleys to make sure they are moving freely. If the pump pulley (the one on the right hand side)doesn't rotate, you likely have a forign object in there or just a bad pump. If the transmission pulley (the large one in the middle) doesn't rotate, check for forign objectes between the tub and backet. If the one on the left doesn't rotate, it's time for a new motor.

the smaller belt is causing the tub to spin too quickly. the shorter belt is causing the motor to overheat and causing the thermal overload protector to shut dowqn the motor. when the motor cools it starts up again. replace the belt with te correct size and that will solve your problems

The C1 code indicates the "instantaneous current limit" trip. This signifies problems with the drive motor, thermal protector, motor controller. Overloading the machine will cause high amps and trip the unit. Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a current spike of 26 amps instantly at the motor windings in which the motor overload trips. check bearings for lubrication - or as stated above overloading the washer.