Question about Whirlpool Cabrio 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus Electric Dryer
Its the Rotor Position Sensor very easy solution!!!chat with me online and ill step you through it save up to $65 (my in-home rate in florida is $75!!!!!!!)
Posted on Sep 27, 2007
Lefty, the code means a rotor position sensor error. The first thing you want to do is see if the basket turns freely by hand. I had one the other day where a dish towell was caught between the basket and tub giving the error. You will have to open the top by using a putty knife and pushing in on the clips on each side. They are strong clips so you have to use some force. The whole top will lift up. Next you will have to remove the tub ring. It just snaps off. If you don't find anything between them, then I would suspect the rotor sensor itself. At the factory they sprayed a protective coating on them and sometimes this causes the problem. You would have to tip the washer back. The motor cover comes off witha allen head, just pulls down. Now there is 4 screws that hold the motor in place. Once you drop them, the plastic cover protector will come down along with the motor so observe carefully where it mounts back up. The motor connector will be the 3 pronged harness on the right side of the motor. The rotor position sensor will be on the left. Snap the positon sensor in and out about 8 or 9 times to get the coating off. If this doesn't work, and you keep getting the error, you will have to order the position sensor. I have had to order the harness as well in some cases. Catriver.
Posted on Dec 03, 2007
"AF" is a restricted air flow condition. You say you've only had your dryer for 3 months, but have you ever cleaned the ducting? You need to check the lint screen after every load, AND you need to perform routine cleaning of the dryer venting (inside the dryer, as well as the vent line from the dryer to where it exits the house) about every three months. If left in this condition, the dryer heating circuitry will eventually failed and/or you could cause a fire hazard. An easy way to check to see if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer. Run the dryer to see if you have air flow coming from the back of the unit. The air should be about 140 degrees F and forceful. Check to see if the error comes back. If everything runs fine, then you know the problem exists in the vent line between the dryer and where it exits the house. If you still have problems, you will need to unplug the dryer, remove the back panel and inspect the interior for clogs. At least you have a dryer that warns you when the air flow become restricted or blocked. Most dryers will continue to run until they overheat or fail. I hope this information is helpful. Post back with your comments and let me know.
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
If it is not the plug at the bottom is ok and the temp. sensor is ok.Check the plug on the CCU on top mine was not even plugged in. When I plugged it in the washer started working. You have to take the top off to get to it,but it is easy. Three screws on the back top and the top will slide off easily. There is a troubleshooting manual in the front bottom panel on right side of panel. Page 10 troubleshoots the temp. sensor. The book gives you all the troubleshooting codes. The front panel comes off easily by unscrewing three screws on the very bottom of the panel.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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