I BUY FROM ARGOS A BUSH COOKER THEY DELIVERY TO MY 3 FAULT BUSH COOKER.I'M STILL WITH A FAULT COOKER

Thermostat has failed

Here you go:

http://argos.scene7.com/is/content/Argos/4894827_R_D001pdf

Here is a link to the manual in pdf format http://argos.scene7.com/is/content/Argos/4894827_R_D001pdf http://argos.scene7.com/is/content/Argos/4894827_R_D001pdf

Hi
I had a look at the manual which I found here:
http://argos.scene7.com/is/content/Argos/4894827_R_D001pdf
and I don't think that the red light should be on all the time, depending upon the positioning of the function switches - see pages 9 & 10. You may wish to check the manual more thoroughly than I have to confirm this.
Cheers

If you have a problem with your Electrolux EOD5310 cooker or oven then this diagnostic video will help you find the fault and i hope it helps you. i have put a link also so you can get the parts for your cooker

cooker parts
Need help fixing your appliances

these repair guides will also help you find and understand the exact problem with your cooker

How to Repair

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The icon with the 2 lines (top and bottom) turns on both the top and bottom elements. The icon with 1 line at the bottom turns on just the bottom element; this is the bake element. The icon with the single line at the top is for broiling.

The manual for the Bush AE56SW is available from Argos here: http://argos.scene7.com/is/content/Argos/4893945_R_D001pdf . The oven knob control diagram is on page 8.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hi Eugene,
Download the manual on the link below.
http://argos.scene7.com/is/content/Argos/4894827_R_D001pdf

Hi guess you would have got your cooker fixed or replaced by now but I thought I would comment as we have had the same problem.

First I checked the bulb inside the cooker to see if there was a fault but the bulb was intact, I then checked the cooker over visually inspecting suspect broken parts I noticed the Thermosat control (3rd in from left hand side) wasn't turning properly so I ordered a new one. Couple days later it arrives and I remove the old switch and replace (very simple task) once the cooker is apart I get it all back together and it still doesn't work. So I grab my multi tester and perform a continuity test on the elements which proved to be normal range (43ohms was the reading). I was stumped. I began checking the whole cooker wiring and checking everywhere for a fault. After some time I notice a abnormality inside the main cooker control (2nd from the left hand side). Under closer inspection I realise one of the brass pins and spring has dislodged and no longer giving an electical connection. After ordering a new switch I stripped the old one and replace the pin and spring and rebuilt for a temporary fix. Rebuild the cooker and hey presto it works. Couple days later new switch arrives so I changed them over. Touch wood nothing else goes wrong but there's not much to them once they are apart.

Hope this helps others with their problem.