Hi i have never had a problem with this amp until yesterday when it just stopped playing music.... the green light comes on and the speakers will move briefly when the key is turned from off to auxilary.... im hoping this is a standard problem and easy fix...
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Re: kicker 750.1 mono amplifier
Since you didn't mention the red light, I'll assume it's not coming on. If that's the case, you'll need to check the B+ and remote voltage at the amp.
With a multimeter set to DC volts and the black lead on the amplifier's ground terminal, the meter should read 11+ volts when the red lead is touched to either the remote terminal or the B+ terminal.The head unit will need to be on so the remote lead will be 'hot' (have 12v on it).
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MY BEST GUESS FROM WHAT YOU HAVE SAID IS THAT THE BOX WAS TO SMALL. BUT YOU ARE OVERPOWERING THE SUB RUNNING IT AT 2 OHMS ON A 750 WATT AMP WITH A SUB THAT IS ONLY RATED FOR 600. NO MATTER HOW FAR YOU TURN YOUR SETTINGS DOWN, YOUR STILL PUSHING TO MUCH POWER FOR THE SUB TO HANDLE. IT IS ONLY RATED 600 WATTS FOR A REASON. ESPECIALLY IF YOU LISTEN TO MUSIC THAT HAS A REAL LOW END AND THEN A HARD HIT. REMEMBER A HARD HIT WILL SPIKE YOUR AMPS OUTPUT THEREFORE PUSHING MORE WATTAGE TO THE SUB.
the amp is a 200 Watt by 4 im guessing and its doing that because its going into protection mode unhook the subs if it stops then 1 you have a bad sub or 2 the subs are too much for the amp if an amp is rated 200w per chanel its 200 max about 75 rms or 75 normal constant power
The Kicker L7 has an RMS power range of from 50-750 watts and a maximum power handling capability of 1,500 watts so your Sony amp will power it OK. A more powerful monoblock like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or the Kicker 08ZX750.1 would provide even more power and could operate safely at 2ohms.
You have the voice coils wired properly for the Sony amp. It's OK to have the sub impedance higher, but you definitely do not want it lower than the 4ohms the amp is rated at in bridged mode.
there is a safety feauture in the amp that shuts if off it is getting to much power from cd player outputs. all amps have this. some cd players also have this. unfortunately there is no way to get around this besides turning up the amp and turning down cd player
First off, never, ever replace a blown fuse with a bigger one (especially one that is almost twice as big) unless it's an absolute emergency. Most of the time, the reason a fuse blows is because of a problem with the device (in this case, the amp). By installing a larger fuse, there's a very good chance the problem will become permanent (i.e. busted amp).
The amp could be going into an overcurrent mode when the bass hits and power cycling itself to try and reset the problem. If this is the case, take it to a local electronics repair shop and see what they can do.
It's also possible the input voltage to the amp is dropping too low during the bass hit, making the amp restart. Try putting a 1.0F or higher capacitor on the battery to buffer the power during the bass hits.
it is probably the rca inputs on the amp may have fried. was your cd decked turned up loudly before the power went out? did any wires accidently touch each other? If had worked fine and then suddenly stopped, than either a wire came loose or the inputs fried. try using different cables and I also suggest disconnecting power for 24 hours and then reconnect. If the green light is on then it is getting power and the problem is in the rca cables or the inputs