What should the settings be on rear of entry pad?

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Refer to Keyless Entry System Description and Operation

Keyless Entry System Description and Operation - Passive
Passive keyless entry allows entry to a locked vehicle without pressing any buttons on the keyless entry transmitter. You must only have the transmitter with you. This passive system is also part of the vehicle starting system. It allows you to start and run the vehicle having only the transmitter as your key. The passive entry and starting system use low frequency antennas in 4 different areas on the vehicle to determine the location of the transmitter. When passively opening a locked door or the rear compartment lid, you must have a programmed transmitter with you in your pocket, purse, or briefcase. As a customer opens the door handle or presses rear compartment touch pad, the low frequency antenna sends out a challenge to the keyless entry transmitter. The transmitter must be in a one meter range of the door or rear compartment lid in order to receive the challenge. If the challenge is met, the transmitter will respond, allowing the door to be unlocked and opened. Passive entry allows you to operate the following features:
• Passive door unlock/unlatch
• Passive rear compartment lid release
• Illuminated entry lamps
• Vehicle starting
The keyless entry system has the following components:
• Keyless entry transmitters
• LH and RH door antennas (part of the door handle assembly)
• Rear compartment antenna
• Console passive antenna
• Console active antenna
• Instrument Panel Module (IPM)
• Rear Integration Module (RIM)
• Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
• External RF Antenna (includes coax from RCDLR to back glass)

Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
The RCDLR is a multi-function module which controls all the vehicles antennas for passive keyless entry functions. The RCDLR also acts as the receiver for active keyless entry and tire pressure monitoring (TPM) functions, as well as controlling all immobilizer functions.
The RCDLR's RF antenna is located in the back glass, and there is a coax cable connecting the glass antenna to the module located in the trunk.

Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop that has the factory Tech 2 scan tool or someother professional type scanner that can read • Rear Integration Module (RIM) DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes .

Will need re-set new key; your keyless code is located in the label on Security Module. To find it, open the right/rear door and pull the on-body weatherstrip slightly away from the body at the rear side of the door opening. Fold and lock the right/rear seat back down into the locked position.

Carefully pull the trim panel that houses the seat belt height adjuster and anchor pivot off of the body. Now carefully pull the lower trim panel from the inside outward far enough to expose the VSM (Vehicle Security Module). This module has three electrical connectors plugged into it, coloured green, grey and blue.

On the module is a label bearing a number similar to 4L2T-15K602-EA. On the same label will be FIVE large numbers. Those five numbers are your five digit keyless entry keypad code.

Hope this helps (remember to rating this answer and leave a testimonial comment).

there are 2 places that have the 4 digit code for the keyless entry pad. !st place would be the rear trunk hing ,or close to that on the right hinge . The other place is under dash ,right side ,top of glove bx. inside, even behind the kick panel. It is kinda hidden, but look
real hard and you will see it. That is such a nice feature to have, and other functions also. Press the last number in the code will open the trunk. Press the last 2 at the same time to lock all doors.Let me know if that helps

You can try programming it but first make sure the battery is good. Locate the smart/learn button on the rear of the motor unit near where all those white wires go. Press and immediately release this and then walk over to your keypad and key in any 4 digit code you like and press enter.

It sounds like the door you are working with is progammed as a type 13 (perimeter) rather than a type 10 (entry exit)

Alarmprofessor.com

If the following instructions don't work and you have a good battery the keypad has failed.

Locate the smart/learn button on the rear of the motor unit near where all those white wires go. Press and immediately release this and then walk over to your keypad and key in your 4 digit code and press enter.

your pads stuck??

1. Raise the vehicle and support with suitable safety stands.
2. Concerning wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the bolt and gaskets, then disconnect the flexible hose from the caliper and after disconnecting the flexible hose (1), cap or tape the openings to prevent entry of foreign material.
4. Since the brake fluid flows out from the connecting coupler, place a drain pan under the vehicle.
5. Remove guide bolt upper
6. Remove lock bolt lower
7. Remove caliper assembly.
8. Remove support bracket with pad assembly and take care not to damage the flexible brake hose when removing the support bracket.
9. Remove pad assembly with shim and mark the lining locations if they are to be reinstalled.
10. Remove clip.

To locate the original keypad code, open the passenger/rear door. Pull the on-body rubber weatherstrip out, around the rear side of the door closure. Fold the right/rear seatback down into the locked position to facilitate access to the right/rear seat belt anchor. Carefully pry the upper plastic panel that houses the height adjuster and seat belt anchor off the body taking care not to damage the panel. Now pry the lower panel outward just far enough to enable access to the Vehicle Security Module, where you'll see three electrical connectors plugged into it, coloured green, grey, and blue. On the module will be a series of digits on a label similar to 5L2T-15K602-EA. Beside those digits are five numbers. Those five numbers are the keyless entry keypad code.

My jack plug lead got yanked and broke the wires inside the electronics unit. There are three screws to undo in order to get inside the electronics, one by the cable entry and two very small cross head scvrews in deep holes halfway along the unit. I cut the jack lead on the outside close to the cable entry and drilled out the hole through the cable guide and then poked the jack cable back through the hole into the electronic unit. I was able to solder the three leads to their respective pads. There are five solder pads next to the cable entry. With the cable entry at the top, the middle pad connects to the green cable, the rightmost pad connects to the red cable and the copper connects to a pad about 1 cm down from the rightmost connector. The technique was to tin the ends of the leads with solder before soldering them to the pads. I used a blob of glue from a glue gun to hold the cable in place inside the electronics unit. My plan B if the soldering was not possible was to take a jack plug and lead from an unused set of earpieces and use that lead in place of the original. It would have been much more difficult to replace the lead from the electronics unit to the headset.