Typically pressing F2 will enter the computer BIOS. Try striking the F2 key repeatedly just as you turn on power. If you are not able to access the BIOS screen then it is likely a power supply failure.
If you are able to access the BIOS con firm that the BIOS has found the HDD and reports on the drive. The format is different for every machine. It is either an IDE or SATA. The DHH that contains the boot sector and OS (operating system-windows) needs to be confirmed to be present in the BIOS for the computer to boot. The computer should still continue but issue an error message that no boot was found.
The fact that no beeps or lights come on and if BIOS is not accessible it would be power supply or motherboard. Remove plug from wall and allow to set at least a minute. Try rebooting.
If you are not able to reboot then you can assume that all of your files and documents are still safe. The concern is without technical experience going into troubleshooting the power supply or motherboard can put either your HDD or yourself in harms way. If you have a friendly computer repair suggest you get an estimate first of troubleshooting cost and have them determine the problem. If motherboard make sure that a replacement computer will take your HDD. It would not be installed as a OS boot drive but as a drive where yo could copy over all of your photos and documents into a new PC.
Hope this has helped?
SOURCE: emachines 1900+ gets power to the monitor and computer but wont boot
I am having exactly the same problem also (I have a Model C2685). The hard drive and CD ROM Drive light comes on and stays on. Thanks for any advice.. i turn on the computer and monitor.the monitor powered up the computer fans came on even the cpu fan but wouldnt boot not even a flicker on the screen. the hard drive light comes on and stays on. ive tried a new power suply,new ram,and a new hard drive. anny help would be awsome thanks
SOURCE: eMachines T6528 desktop will not boot up
The power supply fan runs from either 5V or 12 so that only tells you that the voltage for fan operation is present.
If you don't have a multimeter already, I would highly advise that you buy one.
They are available for <$20 US at auto parts stores and electronic outlets.
If you have one, remove the couple of screws that hold on the side panel that will let you access the guts.
For an initial check, turn the power off and if your cables are long enough, don't bother to disconnect anything since changing the load on the supply might make it appear OK again.
Turn it back on once you have it in position and are not moving it anymore.
Locate the main connector from PS to the mother board, insert the negative probe into any connector hole with a black wire.
All supplies will have 5V, +-12V (these are the primary voltages used by many devices) and you will find (probably) -5 and some that seem stable but undefined which are used for monitoring supply health.
Many supplies have the voltages listed on a label which often will tell you the orientation (location) of the various voltages.
I think you have a supply dying but you need to measure its outputs before assuming I'm right - been wrong before.
While you have the case open, but power off, clean out the dust bunnies you'll find using a clean paintbrush that has been dampened and made nearly dry again or buy a 'can of air' to blow them out.
I recommend against vacuuming due to the horrendous static charge they can build and this is death to most semiconductors.
If you have established that the supply is failed or failing, you can buy a new one (don't repair) for about 20% of the cost of the parts inside - yeah, it's nuts.
Your system will probably use the ATX form factor (so it fits mechanically) and any of these will have the basic connectors but examine the pictures and compare them to yours to be sure that some non-standard connectors your system might have are present on the new one.
If your supply says 350 watts, add another 50 or 100 watts to the replacement; it won't cost much more but will let the supply run with less stress.
If you feel the need, you might want to label stuff before you disconnect things if you haven't done it before but the connectors are made so you can't screw up without trying real hard.
SOURCE: Computer won't start up and has a constant tone.
If the noise is constant then it means the problem is either:
1: a Power supply issue
2: a motherboard issue
3: a keyboard problem
the latter of the three being the easiest to fix, try booting with your keyboard unplugged or even better if you have another keyboard try using it to see if that corrects the problem.
If the above does not work then you have a problem with 1 or 2, and in order to find out for certain you will need to test it, you can goto your local computer diagnostic store to see if they can check which it is.
and hope its not a problem with the motherboard.
Hope this helps, and Good Luck
SOURCE: emachines t2899 will come on and fans run but screen is still blank
Actually, the monitor is fine. The problem is that the computer isn't booting. The power comes on and the fans spin, but the system board isn't starting. Try reseating the memory modules in their sockets and clearing the CMOS memory using the jumper on the system board. If the problem continues, try another power supply. Finally you may need to replace the system board.
SOURCE: Compaq Presario SR2013WM Problem
ITTech06 THANK YOU SO MUCH... Had the same issue than luv2luvme78. Tried your solution and it worked... U're awesome... Many Thanx. Thought I'll have to trash my pc which has bunch of info I still needed.
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