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Posted on Jul 15, 2009

Problem with KitchenAid KUIA18PNLS0 Under-Counter 18-inch Ice Mak

Switch Position OFF - system is off, though Drain Pump will operate if water is in the drain reservoir (pour water into drain, melting ice, emptying of Water Reservoir, etc.).
Switch Position ON - Water Valve fills Water Reservoir (30 secs. or so, resulting in overflow into drain, as designed. Drain Pump kicks in (appears to turn off all other functions) and removes water (15 secs. or so), as designed. When completed, power is restored to system and Water Valve adds more water to Water Reservoir (already full, 30 secs.), resulting in overflow. Drain Pump kicks in (15 secs.). Cycles indefinitely - 30 minutes or more. Occasionally, there are deviations from this cycle. See Deviations (below).
Switch Position Clean - Compressor turns on, Water Pump turns on, and water is pumped across the Evaporator. The system appears to switch into a reverse/heat pump manner, where the Evaporator is heated and ultimately the fluids used to clean are also heated. This appears to be as designed and would (I think) contribute to a good cleaning process. Occasionally, the Water Valve adds water, which discharges some of the cleaning agent (nickle safe cleaner). Over time, most of the cleaning agent is replaced with water. While manual says the Cleaning Cycle last approximately 45 minutes, it appeared to run indefinitely until manually cancelled.
Deviations during Switch On cycle - always starts with Water Valve overflow and Drain Pump cycle for 20-30 minutes following an Switch Off to Switch On toggle. Have observed: Water pump and compressor turn on and the creation of ice sheet on Evaporator. Sometimes this is halted with a return the the Water Valve/Drain Pump cycle. Sometimes this results in a sheet of ice, which slides onto the Cutter Grid, as designed, but always returns to the Water Valve/Drain Pump cycle.
Inspection: Have inspected nearly all components and connection, observing no obvious faults. This includes PC Board, assembly switch, light switch, transformer, wire harness, etc., etc. All connections are clean, tight, and corrosion-free. PC Board shows no evidence of burn out resistors or components.
Overall, the appliance is clean and has been descaled manually and with appropriate metal-safe cleaner through cycle, though it has not been in operation for at least one-year.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

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There is no solution. I have three kitchenaid ice makers and they do not work. The 18inch was under warranty. I had it serviced every friday until warranty ran out. I put an inline filter on the machine and it ran like a charm for three months, which is a first. It's out again! The two 15 inch same thing... inline filter and it worked for a month. Yes I have cleaned the machine over and over with appropriate products. It will turn on water fills but it appears as though the pump is not moving the water. Either way the machine worked correctly for two years only for the 15 inch and for the 18 inch one year.

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I have a Kitchen Aid under the counter Ice maker. When you power it on it cycles water and then the power button light flashes several times and powers off.

If your KitchenAid under-counter ice maker is cycling water but then powers off with the power button flashing several times, there may be a few possible causes. Here are some steps to troubleshoot the issue:

  1. Check the water supply: Make sure that the water supply line is properly connected and the water is flowing to the ice maker. If the water supply is blocked or not reaching the ice maker, it may not be able to function properly.
  2. Clean the condenser coils: Dirty condenser coils can cause the ice maker to overheat and shut off. Make sure to clean the coils regularly to prevent this issue.
  3. Check the drain pump: If the drain pump is not functioning properly, the ice maker may shut off to prevent water from overflowing. Check the drain pump for any clogs or damage and replace it if necessary.
  4. Check the water inlet valve: The water inlet valve is responsible for letting water into the ice maker. If it is not functioning properly, the ice maker may shut off. Test the valve for continuity using a multimeter and replace it if necessary.
  5. Check the control board: If all other components are functioning properly, the issue may be with the control board. Test the control board for proper voltage and replace it if necessary.

If these troubleshooting steps do not resolve the issue, it may be necessary to call a professional technician to diagnose and repair the problem with your KitchenAid under-counter ice maker.
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I have a Kitchenaid under the counter ice maker, model KUIA18PNLS4. It has stopped making ice. The power is on and the tray will fill up with water, but make no ice.

Remove service panel & check operation of compressor. If compressor is running, check condenser fan motor(should be running with compressor). If components are running, a certified refrigerator tech must check refrigerant.
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Hoshizaki am-25ae. We have inherited a AM-25AE with the lodge we bought and it works just fine. We do want to give it a very good clean inside and disinfect the whole water 'way' to ensure the ice won

Cleaning Instructions:
Water System
1) Dilute approximately 5 fl. oz. (148 ml) of recommended cleaner Hoshizaki " Scale Away" or "Lime-A-Way" ( Economics Laboratory, Inc) with 1 gal. (3.8 lit) of water.
2) Remove all ice from the Evaporator and the storage bin. Note: To remove cubes on the evaporator, remove the front panel ( Lower), move the control switch on the control box to the "OFF" position and move it back to the "ICE" position after 2 minutes. The harvest cycle starts and the cubes will be removed from the evaporator plate.
3) Move the control switch to the "OFF" position. Close the water supply line shut-off valve.
4) Remove the water tank to drain the water. Refit the water tank in its correct position.
5) Slowly pour the cleaning solution into the water tank.
6) Move the control switch to the "WASH" position.
7) After circulating the cleaner solution for about 30 minutes, move the control switch to the "OFF" position.
8) Remove the water tank to drain the cleaning solution. Refit the water tank in its correct position.
9) Open the shut-off-valve.
10) Move the control switch to the "WASH" position to circulate clean water for about 5 minutes.
11) Move the control switch to the "OFF" position and immediately back to the "WASH" position to rinse water.
12) Repeat the above rinse procedure three more times to rinse thoroughly.
13) Dilute approximately 0.5 fl. oz. (14.8 ml) of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite (Chlorine bleach) with 1 gal. (3.8 lit) of water.
14) Move the control switch to the "OFF" position. Close the water supply line Shut-off-valve.
15) Remove the water tank to drain the water. Refit the water tank in its correct position.
16) Slowly pour the sanitizing solution into the water tank.
17) Move the control switch to the "WASH" position.
18) After circulating the sanitizing solution for about 15 minutes, move the control switch to the "OFF" position.
19) Remove the water tank to drain the sanitizing solution. Refit the water tank in its correct position.
20) Open the shut-off valve.
21) Move the control switch to the "WASH" position to circulate clean water for about 5 minutes.
22) Move the control switch to the (OFF) position and immediately back to the "WASH" position to rinse water.
23) Repeat the above rinse procedure two more times to rinse thoroughly.
24) Move the control switch to the "ICE" position, and start the automatic ice making process. Refit the front panel (LOWER) in its correct position. abut do not forget to wash and sanitize the ice bin.
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GE WBVH6240 front load washer runs on 38 min. of the speed wash cycle then stops and door unlocks at 18 min. Tried to restart via the drain and rinse cycle at 18 min., the water pump comes on but no spin...

Hello, Welcome to FixYa.

The first thing I'd suggest is removing the filter in the pump you spoke of and insuring the pump is clear...there may be alot of water though so hopefully you're close to a drain or have some buckets/towels handy.

If that fails to resolve the problem it could be a plugged or faulty pressure switch. Have you run a system diagnostic yet ?

Here's how and the subsequent code meanings...in the event you don't know...

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macmarkus_312.jpg
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Let me know if any of this helps or perhaps you cannot read it, It is all included in the service manual I can send via email if you could use it.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)
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sounds like the flood switch has activated.

You will have to drag the dishwasher out from under the counter after turning off the power to it. Tilt to one side so that any water collected under it is expelled. This will free up the flood switch. Wait about 30 minutes and turn the power back on.

There could be a leak of some sorts from the door seal or hoses which is causing the water to collect.

Hope this solves the problem. It is unclear why none of the lights are lighting up to show a fault condition.
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