Question about Samsung Refrigerators

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I have replaced the cooling fan motor twice in my Samsung Refig. Model RF267 and the fan does not run. I have previously replaced it 2 other times and it fixed the problem.

What else can be the reason the cooling fan wont run?

Posted by Robert Martin on


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John Tripp

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Usually a defective fan is caused by a defective control board that does not send the correct voltage to the fan in turn burning out a new fan motor. You will need to replace both board and fan motor. APPLIANCE 911

Posted on Dec 12, 2015


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Flash 88


I own a Samsung Model RF267 ABPN and am experiencing the exact same problem. If you go through the fixya Web site you will find this is a fairly common problem with the Samsung Refrig. There are 4 schools of thought:
1. Press and hold power freeze and power cool buttons at same time for 10 seconds to reset.
2. Press and hold the Energy Saver and Lighting buttons at he same time for 8-10 seconds.
3. Unplug the unit for 10 minutes and plug it back in.
4. Replace electronic circuit boards (for example the main board found in the backof the unit or a board that controls the dislay found in the door.
I would be interested in how your unit responds to #1 or #2.
Good Luck
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Refig is not cooling

Good day,
Open the freezer door. You should hear the fan motor running. If not, you will have to remove the rear panel, and check the motor. If it is bad. Replace.
If the fan motor is O.K. then it is a defrost system problem.
1. In the food compartment, behind the main controls is a slot that allows you to advance the timer. With the machine on, turn the shaft of the timer with a screw driver, until the machine shuts off. It is now in the defrost mode. Leave it like that for a minimum of 45 minutes. If it turns the machine back on, it is O.K. If not replace.
2. If the timer checks O.K. you will have to check the other 2 parts. To access them you have to remove the rear panel. One of the items is a defrost thermostat clipped to the top of the coil. To test, the machine must be at temperature. You will need to do theses tests with an ohm meter. The thermostat should test at zero ohms. If not (and it is the item that fails the most), replace it.
It looks something like this.

The last item is the main heater, that runs along the bottom of the coil.
It is a quartz glass heater. It should test out at no more than 35 ohms.
If bad. replace.

Unique to G.E. products, if the problem has been around a lot, the ice and frost buildup can migrate to the air return chutes. You can't see the buildup, nor melt it out. If the repair is done properly, and the machine, unfortunately must be emptied, unplugged, and left off for a minimum of 12 hours.

Here is a neat tutorial on defrost systems.

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If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”

  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

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