ever heard of the voltmeter. ?
a device the prevents guessing?
it's very simple to use, if yours is a DMM and that is confusing
use a walfart analog meter for $10 (retrograde meter)
so since one light works, that means the
wires are bad.when I say wires, that means the connectors too.
and btw the switch was good, after all it runs both lights.
my guess? is trailer wiring hacks, or collision damage caused.
if the dead lamp is 0v, the wire is cut.
if like 1v to 6v, its shorted. just enough to not blow fuse but lamp is very dim, did you look in the dark?
low voltage is called, VOLTAGE DROP. (on either side of lamp)
and is caused by 2 things, shorts, or resistance (corrosion)
and sadly you never said left or right side.
see the FSM. see the electric pages.
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/CR-V/see page. 23-1 , index to elect.
then 23-84 brakes
then see them.
see the green-white wire, back aft? In USA we have silly 3rd light. do you>?
using the volt meter, measure the Green-white wire. (bad side)
if 12v?, brakes active, the ground to the lamp is open or the new lamp is DOA.
if the lamp tests good (use a battery), the ground is open to lamp.
if the wire reads 6v (low #), it's got a short. (or a rusty ground wire)
or the green wire is shorting to ground.
if you trace the wire to the other side if car, you will find the open cut wire or the ground out. I'm 100% sure. (grounds good)
if the lamp green has 12v, we measure the shell of the lamp to the body ground, metal, brakes active ! if not 0v, the ground to the lamp is bad. fix the ground.
very simple tests. all.
this is all with a $10 volt meter, it will not lie to you ever,. trust it.
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