4 cyl 5 speed. oil comes out and sreads a ring

This is something you can find capacities for in your manual. If I were to guess based on this being a 4 cyl. you will need 4 or 5 quarts.

Maybe a leak-down test on number 4 could find it. Cylinder wall wear, maybe?
At least you got a good head if you have to rebuild the engine, that is, if worse comes to worse.

Depends on your engine.

1980 JEEP CJ-7 2.5L 4-cyl Engine Code [B]
CAPACITIES
Engine, GM without filter..........2.4 quarts[1]
Wix Filter ........ 51040
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........8.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....25 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

1980 JEEP CJ-7 4.2L 6-cyl Engine Code [C]
CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........5.0 quarts[1]
Wix Filter..... 51522
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........11.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....30 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

1980 JEEP CJ-7 5.0L 8-cyl Engine Code [H]
CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........4.0 quarts[1]
Wix Filter..... 51258
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

Oilman

You don't say what engine it has. The 4-cyl was a better than the V6 for oil leaks.

The V6 had oil leaks from

-rear bank cam cover gasket

-distributor o-ring seal

-oil filter bracket o-ring seal

-crankshaft nose oil seal (less common)

-rear main bearing oil seal (expensive, just leave it)

The 4 cyl leaked oil from

-distributor o-ring seal

-camshaft cover gasket

-rear main bearing seal (expensive, leave it)

1. Most likely.
2. Unbolt 9/10/11mm.

Timing Cover Assembly



Oil Pump
Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Drain engine oil.
3. Remove crankcase assembly.
4. Remove crankshaft pulley.
5. Remove timing belt.
6. Remove timing pulley from crankshaft.
7. Remove four fixing bolts from oil filter assembly.
8. Remove oil strainer fixing bolts, remove oil strainer assembly with O-ring.
9. Remove three bolts from oil pipe and O-ring.
10. Remove eight oil pump fixing bolts, then oil pump assembly.
11. Remove sealant from mounting surface of oil pump assembly, cylinder block and take care not to damage mounting surfaces of oil pump and cylinder block.

yes it would be agood thing if you can have the engine rebuilt cause this will also give your car much more power with less smoke and your car will use less fuel

Standard 10W-30

It means that your piston rings are worn out or the compression chamber or sleeve is worn out..4 stroke engine has compression rings and another rings for oil only..So even though you have compression it does not mean that your oil ring is not worn out..

Try shooting oil into 4 and 6, then retake compression test. If they come up you have worn rings, if not you could have a slight leak around the valves. or a slight leak in the head gasket between those two cylinders.