Water leaking from under face plate on old Kohler whirlpool. Took off place and identified that water was leaking up out of the diverter assembly rather than from the hot or cold valves. Ordered new diverter assembly from Kohler and now can't get the old one out. The top of the diverter has a couple of notches cut out and sits down in a sleeve and would appear to require some sort of cap or special tool/adapter to engage the notches so you can use a wrench. Think Moen provides such an adapter with there diverters. Called Kolhler and they said no such adapter but I'm at a loss as to how to remove it otherwise?
SOURCE: water leaking from tap when turned off
In order to remove the Danze handle from this particular model grasp the handle of the valve and then the body of the valve and turn the body counter clockwise in order to remove.
Hope this helps.
If you don't have a supply house near you that carries parts for the Danze products you can go to danze.com and order them there.
sanray
SOURCE: Vaillant turbomax 28 constant hot water problem.
got your fix, its a calcium buildup in the heat exchanger, and more than likely the rest of the unit, you will need to flush the unit with about 4 gallons of vinegar, you will need to recirculate it for about 20 mins through the unit, then flush with clean water, hook it back up, it might take a couple of mins for it to run properly, but it will, I have had the same problem with Rinnai on demand hot water systems, and it worked like a charm, check the filter thats inline as well, make sure it isnt plugged, clean if needed, also if you dont have a soft water system inplace, you might want to think about buying one and having it installed, that will reduce this from happening again for alot longer period of time, hope that helps
SOURCE: kohler bath/shower diverter stem stuck on shower
Probably has water deposit minerals build up on it. Push and or pull with pliers until freely moves,soak in Lime away solvent ,toothbrush on.
SOURCE: faucet issue
Sounds like it was installed upside down or the cartridge is installed improperly
SOURCE: diverter valve does turn to redirect the water
Hello. W/D here....
I'll have to be general in this info as I don't know your specific valve, but I have worked on many diverter valves.
Either the packing gland on your valve is too tight, or you have a damaged diverter valve.
1. Make sure water won't come out in the tub or shower when your water is turned off; that is, that your water valves don't leak. If they do, you'll have to shut off the water.
2. Gain access to the valve body/diverter valve: Remove the plastic cap on the knob, remove the screw then remove the knob. The metal tube will unscrew from the valve body.
3. It gets a bit tricky here, so bear with me... Looking down the valve stem, there are two nuts surrounding the valve stem. The one closest to you is the packing gland nut. The inner one is the valve cartridge nut. The tricky part is that the nuts are difficult to get at. Turning (loosening) on the outer nut will make the valve easier to operate, and more likely to leak. A general rule for packing glands is that they should be just tight enough not to leak, plus 1/4 turn.
You can buy a set of thin wall sockets at Lowe's or similar, and they are handy. But....you may be able to slip a deep well socket onto the nut and turn it. This will save you ~$15, if it works... Unless you are familiar with adjusting packing glands, it will be easier to just replace the entire valve. Get a socket that will fit the valve body. Place the socket on the valve; the stem will have to pass through the square socket drive hole. You will have to use a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench (or similar) on the socket to remove the valve cartridge. When you have the valve out, look inside the valve with a flashlight and you'll see the valve seat. It will have a square or hexagonal hole in it. Check with your finger for nicks. If it is damaged, remove it. The valve seat wrench is available at a hardware store reasonably, ~$10. Pull the valve out and take it with you to the hardware store. Reinstallation is the reverse of the removal with two exceptions: make sure that the valve stem is "open", and make sure that the packing gland is snug, but not too tight. The easiest way to adjust it is to put the handle on the valve and to operate the valve in your hand. Tighten the gland to snug and operate the valve. Make adjustments in this manner until the valve is still easy to operate, but is getting harder to operate as you tighten it...you'll get the feel for it. Once you're satisfied for the most part, install the valve. Usually there is a plastic gasket or "O" ring that will need to go on the threads. Install according to the instructions included. Once the valve cartridge is installed, operate the valve a few times. Complete the reassembly.
Regards, --W/D--
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