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The E1 you are seeing means Water
Level in Drum lowering, this means there is a leak on one of the pipes.
More likely it is the Circulation Pump, which is responsible for
pushing the water to the Spray arms.
It will have to be replaced,
as it is a common spare that has to be replaced on L.G Dishwashers
(lifetime expectancy: 12 - 18 Months) - Not very expensive.
is about 20%-25% the price of a new Dishwasher. The Circulation pump is
fitted to the sump. Part Number: 5859DD9001A or 5859ED1001A (Depending
which one is in stock)
See below a image of what a Circulation Pump looks like:
Good Luck :-) - J.Q
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first crack union at return see if chlorine present with test strip if ok then pool needs super chlorination its eating up your chlorine if no chlorine at return have salt level checked if ok check sensor and cell if unit is working must keep balanced unit will only maintain
Nothing will remove the buildup because that is mostly the housing of the unit distorting over time with the chlorine inside. Puck quality has a bigger effect on water chemistry than the chlorinator itself though cheap imported pucks are likely to stain the inside of the chlorinator just like they often do to the pool. A new inline chlorinator is about $90 so I would assume it is better to buy a new one than to try and repair a worn out 20 year old one...just my opinion. John
Only two possible sources for a leak one is an ice maker, the other is defrost drain water. Either way it is only 9 months old and still under full warranty!! Call sears and have them come and look at it! I have seen a few of these units with cracked drain pans so be persistent if the tech cannot find a leak, have him pour some water into the pan to see if there is a crack. good luck and save yourself some stress.. You have a warranty to cover this:)
A CL200 Involves direct injection of chlorine into the pool. Water passes through the chlorinator and goes to the pool with chlorinated. WIth the 200 (Not the 220) I've only seen a handful with problems over the years with chlorine not dissolving. If the chlorinator is not leaking, and the control valve is moving freely here's what I'd recommend.
1. Are you using a new type of tablet?
If so remove the tablets and place into a floating chlorinator.*** WARNING Wear Rubber Gloves, while handling wet tabs****
Dial it all the way open. If the tablets don't break down at this point with in a day or two, They were over compressed at the factory, potentially have to much filler (most slow tablets should be 95-99% cholroine) or the water is too cold ( below 70 deg. This should not be an issue in July) If this is the case switch brands.
If the chlorine is dissolving in the floater but not the chlorinator it could be one of the following.
1. Make sure the direction on the chlorinator is correct inlet (from Filter) to outlet (to pool)
2.. In some of the newer 200 chlorinators there is a built in check valve you can see it in the bottom of the chlorinator You will notice a threaded piece in the bottom that contains a white plastic ball the size of a pea. If this ball does not move freely to the touch, odds are the filler in your chlorine has clogged it from moving, thus preventing the flow of water from dissolving the chlorine.
You can check this by removing the chlorinator from the pool, removing the lid and pouring water directly into the top. If you do not see water passing through to the "Outlet" side of the chlorinator a clog is most likey your problem.
I've seen clogs cleared with wire coat hangers and hot water. Be forewarned that hot water being poured into a chlorinator will cause the any residual chlorine to gas off, make sure you do not have you face over the chlorinator when you add the hot water and you do so in a very well ventilated area. A straightened wire coat hanger can be used to dislodge any obstruction in the check valve and "get the ball rolling again"