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if the wires are sodered on to yhe ends of the fuse you can carefully cut them right at the fuse but i would hold my sodering tip on the weld and pull the wire off when the solder melts. Unfortunatly you would have to solder a new fuse back in being realy,really carefull about how long u leave the heat on as it could cook the fuse Sounds like a job for a repairman as you dont want to be frying anything else or altering a good amp and if they screw it up they have to take care of it. please let me know how it goes,im curious.
Man this is a tough one....I can't locate a schematic anywhere online so I suggest calling Peavey In Mississippi and talk with technical assistance. A helpful tech can pull the paperwork and give you the correct value in about 2 minutes. Good luck.
Actually its pretty funny thing with those speakers is the "fuse" is Actually called a Lamp in this case. These are what they call a " Red Dot Fuse ". in all the years i've been doing this i've never thought to look up the value haha. Just have to know there are Red Dot lamps and Blue dots and No Dot. If you examine the LAMP you should see somewhere close to the ends ON THE GLASS a color dot of some kind. almost like someone painted it on there. Red Dot Lamp. any parts distributer for people like Harbinger, Peavey, and B52 will KNOW what your talking about
Scroll down to the link "Get Manual" and download the schematic. Note that it has several pages of parts list preceeding the schematic.
Next, put a 150 Watt incandescent bulb in series with the power cord to act as a current limiting fuse. Now replace the fuse and proceed with testing. You may find that one or more filter caps have shorted. Also pay particular attention the the BIAS power supply. You should see about -35 to -40 volts. Note that the series lamp will come on if excess current is being drawn and voltages will be low if the lamp lights. If the BIAS supply has failed, it is possible your power tubes have been damaged.
The output stage has a problem. From your description, I'd guess that the high voltage supply has failed. The low volume and distortion suggests that you are trying to power the speakers from the driver section rather than the outputs. There is a resistor that fails in some of this series. If I remember correctly it is either a 2K or 3K resistor 10 watts in size. If you have no experience with repairs, I'd seek a service shop that is familiar with these units. The part runs between $5-$10.
Use the series light bulb trick when trying to first power this up. Use a 150 watt bulb in series with the 120 volt power to avoid damage and blown fuses.
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