Do you have a better pruner?

• The first and foremost task is to clean all the impurities, dirt and tree debris. You can do it with the help of wire brush. To remove the oil residue, brush it with a rag or toothbrush and degreaser.
• Many people prefer citrus cleaner over oil. A citrus cleaner is a versatile cleaner that can be used for cleaning anything in your house.
• If you are using any degreaser product, mix it with water in a container and put the blades into the container.
• Let the blade soak into the water for few minutes, scrub it with a rag, rinse it properly and let it dry or wipe the water from the blades.
• Disassembling the pole saw is required before you clean a pole saw blade and put the blades in the container. For this purpose, remove blades from the pruner. You can take expert's help for this or unscrew the blade.
• Put the blade on a table where you would clean the blade and keep the edges facing up.
• Take a sharpening rod and push it forward only between the two teeth. This will file away the meat and sharpen the blade. Keep doing this for few times until you see the filings being developed on the back side of the blade. Make sure to file all the teeth on the blade.
• The back side of the blade should be rubbed with a file as well. It is required to remove the burrs from the blade.
• After sharpening coat, the pole saw blade by spraying oil on it to prevent rust and corrosion.

Do not forget to sharpen the blades with files that fit appropriately in the teeth. Diamond and whetstone files are being widely used for filing. So, this is how you can clean a pole saw blade and maintain it also. It does not take much effort. Invest your time to avoid replacing your favorite pole saw in the future.

I think this is one of those cutter blade type of trimmers , I do know you have to keep blades razor sharp to cut anything with them , as they do tend to go dull easy (by design) , id go with a pole pruner chain saw if your looking to replace it , but beware as pruner chain blades and chain saws are not interchangeable due to fact that pruner's are made to cut on both sides of bar , chainsaws only cut on down stroke hence have a much more aggressive chain rake , don't put a chain for this on a pruner saw you'll be putting your self at risk of injury

Many times, the fan blades themselves are the cause of lowered air flow. Think of the blades edges as though they were the cutting edges of a knife. You know a sharp knife cuts its products better than a dull knife....transfer that concept to airflow. A clean blade is sharper and slices through the air much better than a thick edged dirty and dull fan blade. I've seen extreme cases where the edges were 1/8" thick and the area between the blades nearly filled with lint, dust, dog hair and the like.

Service the blower blade first and while removed inspect the inside of the stove in front of the fan with a flashlight and small mirror. That will tell you if additional cleaning is required. If your motor is a cheap little 'shaded pole' motor, it could just be dragging and operating at a lower rpm than designed, delivering less airflow. If so, it may have to be replaced. There are no oil ports on most of these small motors.

Priming issues are almost always due to a bad gasket or loose fitting.

1. Remove the leaf trap lid. Examine the gasket for debris, cuts or folds that might prevent a tight seal.
2. Remove and examine the winter plugs for proper seal.
3. Remove, re-tape or putty the threaded fitting directly in from of the pump.
4. Check all unions, fittings and connections from the skimmer and main drain to the pump.
5. On rare occasions the impeller may be impacted with debris preventing water flow. Remove the four screws holding the motor to the wet end exposing the impeller and examine it. Hayward impellers are also know to break at the shaft. This will sound like the pump is operating but never pumping water.
6. If everything looks normal, try pouring water over the entire wet end while priming. This will sometimes allow water to fill a void you missed. The pump will probably loose prime again until the issue is corrected.

I had the same issue. I was able to trim the cable shell to get it to insert further and take better hold. I suspect some cables may work better than others but the design is poor as they have the jack on a curved corner. Had they angled it a little it would work better and actually work. They should also include a screen protector for the price. The case scrapes off standard protectors because of the tight fix, though the tight fit is good. I actually love the product though as it actually works. Just not enough real world testing.

I picked up a Sunbeam Humidifier model 1118 for $7 (which was $7 too much) second hand. It wasn't until I got home that I noticed it was filthy-dirty inside...(dirtier than shown in the photos) the reservoir, the bottom tray, AND the fan chamber all needed major cleaning.

A quick Google search told me that the grill is "not removable", and the unit is "not user serviceable". Companies do this/say this for two reasons:

a) They want you to throw it away and buy a new one, landfills and plastic filling our oceans be darned
b) They want to protect themselves from lawsuits, should someone injure themselves servicing their product (or in this instance, cutting their fingers off on the fan blade).

Imagine if all of that design know-how was put into making the product serviceable, cleanable, and long-lasting, rather than ensuring it can't be opened or repaired by the average joe.

Me, I've opened and repaired enough gadgets to think differently.

You CAN remove the grille.
Carefully insert a series of flat-head screwdrivers between the grill and the body a few inches apart, wedging the grill edge away from the body.
There are slits in the body (see photos) that will allow you to get under the grill edge and pry it right out when enough of it has been detached from the anchoring groove.
But be gentle while you're doing it.
The Grille is plastic and flexible; it will bend, but if you use too much force you will damage either the grill or the body.

The photos also show how the grill is anchored to the body - via a groove in the grille edge.

You can put the grille back after cleaning the blades and fan chamber much the same way; pressing down, and if required: prying the side of the grill inwards with a flat head screwdriver.
Mine snapped right back into place with a bit of downward pressure.

Remove the bar from saw and make sure it is clean and free of debris where the bar attaches to the saw. Inspect the bar groove where the chain fits in and make sure the groove is straight and smooth and properly aligned. Re-attach the bar and make sure the chain is set at the recommended tension.

How old are they? If the spring in between the handles is old it won't spring back as well. Usually the only time I've ever had a problem with the blades sticking was when I had bent the arms to the blade. Felco's are indestructible, I know, but sometimes you can get a little to over zealous and use them for something they're not designed to do and you wind up bending them. Look down the arms and find out which one seems a little out of kilter and give it a gentle bend until it's back in shape. Do it too much and you'll wonder why they can't get a clean cut. DON'T FORGET TO RATE THE ANSWER.

The check valve is what causes the pin/driver to return to top of cylinder. To check if it is in place, remove the cylinder from the gun and look for an oring/band installed on a groove. This groove should have vent holes drilled thru the cyl. Holes should be clean. Any oring or rubber band can be used here. Just tight enough to stay in place. Other things to check:
Pin/driver should fit snuglly enough to hold it's own weight in cylinder. If your gun uses a plastic ring, it may be replaced with a rubber oring. Just make sure that the piston travels freely but holds its wieght.
There should be a bumper and a washer in the lower part of the gun. The bumper should not have any cuts or missing pieces and the washer should fit snuggly around the driver blade to prevent air from leaking down thru bottom of gun. If air is leaking down thru bottom, there is less pressure to push driver up. Email if you have more questions, good luck with your repair.

Blade Width is important when purchasing a band saw. Most saws accept narrow 1/8" blades for cutting detailed designs and tight curves. Better saws also accept wider blades. Wide blades don’t flex as much as narrow ones, but they make accurate straight cuts in thick stock quicker. There are also some wide blades available that can cut metal.