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Tylo super sport 2/4 sauna heater. Unit will not heat.

All connections good no burnt wiring. 240 volt...power is good to unit. timer works... but no heat.

Posted by Steven Monaco on

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Anonymous

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: heater only gets mild warm Tylo sport 4 heater

more than likley installation problem not enough voltage top operate heating element

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My tylo supersport 8 sauna

Remove the unit bottom panel (2 small screws) and look at the quick disconnect terminals on the heater rods ( 6 heating rods - 3 on each side of the unit). If you have any corrosion on these terminals, the wires will overheat and fail, preventing the heating rods from working. If the wires did overheat, you should see melted wire insulation. Replace bad wire and quick disconnect terminals with new. Should cost less than $20.

Posted on May 29, 2011

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1 Answer

New heating element is not working on roper whirlpool RED4440VQ1


Their are basically 2 circuits in the dryer. The motor circuit and the heater circuit.You didn't mention anything about it not working so the motor circuit which include the fuse is fine.The motor is 120 volts and runs on the black side and the white common. The heater works on the red and the black side and requires 240 volts. First thing to check is if you have 240 volts going into the machine between red and black on the power terminal. You will notice the heater had red wires connected to it. Them red wires also run through a few safety limits mounted on the heater chamber. If any of them limits is open you will have no heat. If all of the limits are fine and the heater is fine and you have 240 power to the dryer and you still ain't got heat, then it is a strong possibility your timer is bad. Remove the fat heavy wire on the timer and check for continuity between that terminal and all other terminals on the timer, in all cycles. If you cannot get a reading then you have a bad timer.
Here is my home video of a dryer with a heat problem:




If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Nov 27, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Amana ALE643RBW Dry will not start. I checked the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat both read 0 to 4 back to 0 ohms. It was jumping around back and forth. Checked the heating coil it read 10...


Hello Dale,

Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start

start switch

door switch

timer

circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker

if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block

finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding

firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in)
to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram

Good luck, Gene

Jul 26, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

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1 Answer

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Heaters are pretty simple: when timer is on, voltage is applied to the heater elements until timer turns off. To troubleshoot your problem, use a multimeter or circuit tester to check the terminal connections on the heating elements themselves. With the timer ON, you should be able to read voltage (120 or 240, depending on your heater) at those connections. If you don't check the continuity of the wiring from your timer to your heater. Continuity w/out voltage at the element indicates a faulty timer, no continuity means bad wiring. If you do read voltage at the element but it isn't heating, your element is burnt out -- time to replace it. If it's a newly assembled setup or seems odd to be burnt out for some other reason, double check that you're using the correct voltage for that particular heater... 120vac won't run a heater rated at 240vac.

Feb 04, 2010 | Saunacore Standard Residential Sauna...

1 Answer

Dryer works but will not heat up and the timer does not turn


check the input power for 240 volts,sounds like you've lost one leg of power (120 volts) needed to operate the unit,the element requires 240 volts and the motor needs 120 volts and the timer needs 120 volts to operate and they normally split these two items to balance the power load

Oct 02, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Low heat 100 degrees


either the cycling or hi-limit switch are bad or the element is open or the neutral wire can burn open or you could have lost one leg of power to the dryer so instead of 240 volts its running on 120 volts,the motor and timer run on 120 volts even though they are normally on opposite sides of the 240 volt circuits,chk the power to the unit first for 240 volts its the easiest test

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2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


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1 Answer

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If drum turns and no heat.
If unit is electric, look for:

1. Safety tripped or malfunctioned at heater elements.

2. Burnt out element. Wire has come loose or burnt off due to loose connection.

3. Clogged or restricted exhaust. This causes a safety to activate and stops the heating process.

4.Timer malfunction and needs replaced.

5. Improper voltage to unit. Reset breaker and verify proper voltage to unit. (Usually between 208 to 240 volts depending where you are located and the manufacturer of the unit.

Please keep in mind that in many cases, it is cheaper to buy a new unit that it is to repair the exsisting one. Do you homework on this. I've gotten real good dryers at about $200 from places like Lowes.

Hope this helps and let me know how things work out.

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better to unplug the unit for an hour.

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NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).

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