Location of pressure switch intex spa

SOURCE: Spa water drains to pool

Here is a link to the Aqualink website so you can download a trouble shooting guide.

SOURCE: Heater will only heat spa water to luke warm.

the water in my arctic spa hot tub took 2 weeks to get to 102 should it take that long ?

SOURCE: low pressure reading on Pool Heater

I had this problem with ours last year. I replaced the water pressure switch and it began working fine. We later had a symptom that the blower would start but it would not ignite. The ignitor rod was corroded so I took it out and sanded it with some sandpaper---worked fine...until I dropped it trying to reinstall and it broke. Bought a new one and it works fine now.

Today's problem is related to the blower now.... it is always something, isn't it?!?

SOURCE: How do you replace a flow switch in a spa, or hot tub

turn off the power to the spa. remove the cabinet under the topside remote to expose the equipment compartment. You should see the flow switch, it's usually a threaded 3/4" plug with a single grey wire coming out of it. Most of them are threaded into a tee or a special transparent fitting. If the water level in the spa is above the flow switch, you may have to drain the spa down unless you're very fast about getting the new switch in. Unthread the old switch and thread the new one in. Follow the wire on the old one to the spa pack. You'll have to remove the screws on the cover to expose the circuit board. Follow that wire into the spa pack to see where on the circuit board that it is plugged in. It may be good to run the new wire to have in place as soon as you unplug the old one you can install the new one with no question as to where it plugs in.

Reinstall the cover on the spa-pack and turn the main power back on. Make sure that the arrows on the new flow switch are facing the correct direction (direction of flow). Once you have the spa on and it starts back up, run everything to check for leaks and proper operation. If the flow switch was the only problem, all your faults should be cleared and you should be in good shape. If there are no leaks, you can reinstall the cabinet panel.

The new switch should already have teflon tape on the threads, if not, use teflon tape, apply the tape in the direction as if you were threading a nut onto the threads. You only need a few wraps of teflon tape, too much can crack the fitting you threat the new flow switch in to.

SOURCE: pool and spa heater will not turn on, low pressure on display

1) check the fuse on the transformer. You will get "low pressure" if the fuse is blown.
1a) remove front panel with flat head screw driver turning both big screws 1/4 turn clockwise
1b) look up under the 1 remaining front piece for 2 screws (one on each side). remove them and the 1 small panel slides down
1c) transform is directly in the center of this compartment
1d) red wire on transform has a black fuse case - twist open and check fuse (with an ohm meter it should read a dead short if it is working).
1e) if not working - replace with standard 250v 2a bus fuse.
2) it really is low pressure
2a) backwash pool or at least make sure pressure in filter take is not too high (high filter tank pressure == low water pressure in heater)
2b) if you have a bypass valve make sure it is not in bypass mode so most all pressure from the pump is going tothe heater
2c) right next to the transformer is the pressure switch. It has a small copper tube attached to the back and 2 wires in the front. Put an ohm meter across the two leads on this device. With the filter off it should be open, with the filter on it should be closed (short). If not either the copper tubing is clogged, the switch is faulty, or there is not enough water going through the heater. The amount of water that goes into the heater is adjustable and the water pressure switch is also adjustable. The owners manual explains how to adjust both but neither should need adjustment unless you have a special configuration (explained in the manual).