Where can I get a new clamp - Ledu Corporation Swing Arm Lamp 34"H 100W Incandescent Bulb Clamp BlackLEDL502BK

I've been all over the internet with this because the blade clamp on my 331 is jammed as well. It turns out DeWalt has redesigned the blade clamp, I'm guessing they did this because the original design jams. Solution: call DeWalt. Tell them that you have the old and now obsolete blade clamp that is prone to jamming, and that yours is stuck making your saw worthless. Ask them to send you the new redesigned clamp that is supposed to work better. You swap out blade clamp by removing two hex head (allen) screws.

The new style blade clamp for the 331 is part number: N072135SV

*The obsolete part #: N072135, 586203-00 and 589148-00

Good luck getting DeWalt to send you the working part for free.

Turn the hand-wheel counterclockwise until the needle is at the highest point. Lower the guide or presser foot. This will give the maximum room possible for working with the needle.
Turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise until the needle comes loose. This screw is located on the side of the small box, known as the needle clamp, that holds the needle in place.
Remove the old needle by pulling it straight down and then angling it outward. Place a new needle into the holding slot or needle clamp.
Tighten the new needle into place by turning the clamp screw clockwise until tight. Do not over-tighten the needle.


Here's a tip
Use a needle that is appropriate for the type of fabric you are sewing. Using the wrong needle may result in breakage and increase the number of needles to be changed
Over-tightening a needle can cause it to be crooked and break. Turn the clamp screw only until the needle feels stiff in place.

its just taped into the harness you should be able to run a new one along side the harness

If you piggy-back the batterys, you eliminate the possibility of security system problems.
Get 2 pieces of strong wire and wrap one round the bottom of each terminal on the new battery. While the old battery is still connected, wrap the other end of the wires round an accessible part of the car's battery clamps (live first). You will see a small spark when you make the final connection. Now loosen the bolts holding the clamps to the old battery's terminals (careful not to disconnect the wires to the new battery) and lift the old battery out of the car. drop the new battery in. Before fitting the clamps, tighten them a little then tap them onto the terminals. Tightening the clamps first makes the clamp grab the terminal before it goes all the way on. You can now remove the wires from the battery and clamps, loosen the clamps and, without removing them, fit them correctly.
Good luck.

The old hoses and clamps can stick real good after a long period of time Jabril. I would advise you to buy a new clamp, if one didn't come with the hose. If your having trouble getting it off, it may need changed anyway. Take a wire cutter or pliers and cut it in half. If you have a new hose, it won't matter much if the hose gets tore. You can always loosen it up with Vaseline or another chemical. Just be sure not to get it on your electrical wires. A new clamp is fairly cheap, just a few bucks. If the part store doesn't have it, check at Lowe's or the Home Depot. A clamp is a clamp. Don't hesitate to ask me a question Jabril. I am here to help. Thank you very much for choosing FixYa.

Unscrew or squeeze the old clamp and move it down the hose. Then, slide the hose off the radiator, slide out the old clamp off the hose, slide on the new clamp down the hose, replace the hose onto the radiator, slide the new clamp back to where the old clamp was located, tighten it down in place and refill whatever coolant leaked out during the process. Done.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

just pull the machine out, remove the clamp, on the drain hose, put on new hose, and put clamp back on, or purchase a new clamp...home depot/ace hardware..when you buy your new hose, some come with clamps.

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I have a feeling it is made for old style bikes, not these new fangled things. The seat post clamp is the bolt , nut or quick release that holds the seat in the tube and stops it from going up, down or spinning. In the case of the new bike, it could be way down low, where it won't do you any good. I would suggest a clamp of some sort up top to make the child's seat sit level. Depending on how the child's seat is fastened on, you will have to make something work. Like a pipe clamp, antennae clamp, muffler clamp, something like that to replace the seat clamp. But iof you seat clamp is level or up high, remove the nut and bolt and see what happens with the child's seat clamp. Hope this helps.

Clamps? Always use a hose made to work on an assembly, using hose clamps can be very DANGEROUS.

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The metal clamp is supposed to "go-down" the new pads. The metal-clamp must hold the new pads like bread and cheese. The pads (metal clamp) being the bread; the rotor-cheese.
You will have to use a flat-end screw-driver or similar tool to push apart the caliper pistons. Then push down the metal clamp to grip both sides of the rotor.