Why is photograph misty, even though the focus is normal?

You did not say which camera body you are using, but you probably have three different auto-focus modes on you camera. You might be using the wrong one.

The modes are as follows:
AF-A Mode: Camera automatically selects single-servo autofocus when AF-A subject is stationary, continuous-servo autofocus when subject is moving. Shutter can only be released if camera is able to focus. AF-S Mode: For stationary subjects. Focus locks when shutter-release button AF-S is pressed halfway. Shutter can only be released when in-focus indicator is displayed.
AF-C Mode: For moving subjects. Camera focuses continuously while AF-C shutter-release button is pressed halfway. Photographs can be taken even when in-focus indicator is not displayed.

you can download manual here: http://www.retrevo.com/samples/Canon-Digital-Camera-manuals.html
links may help for macro photography tips: http://photo.net/learn/macro/
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/macro-photography-tips-for-compact-digital-camera-users
this one might ask to place an email address:you can use a dummy email address though http://www.digital-photography-school.com/5-situations-when-manual-focus-is-better-than-auto-focus

Hi, It wouldn't autofocus on the D5000 as the body doesn't have an auto focus motor in the body and since that lens is AF, not AF-S, it won't autofocus. It should autofocus on the D7000 though, how far away are you from the object you're trying to photograph?

Try to use a different setting like a bright light setting to see if the apeture is closed down further and brings back focus.
the problem is the auto focus which can be going stray and is not setting right.So take time to shoot with the shutter button down to half to allow it to focus and then once the indication of the focus has confirmed to click.
If not contact Sony service for help.

Normally the closest focus you can get is 1.6 ft at W and 3.0 ft at T. In Macro mode you can get down to 3.9 inches. In Super Macro mode you can get even closer.

To get into Macro mode, press the Flower button until the flower appears on the LCD. To get into Super Macro mode, keep pressing the Flower button until an S appears inside the flower.

For full details, refer to your manual. In my copy, it starts on page 56.

Normal 0 A growing number of digital cameras now include a Face Recognition mode. The camera detects faces in a scene and then automatically focuses (AF) and optimizes exposure (AE) and, if needed, flash output.
The technology can be effective when taking pictures of large groups, when a person is in the distance or when the subject moves into the frame. Even if a person moves, the camera will stay focused on it and adjust exposure. It is also effective when photographing people in bright light when the LCD is difficult to see.
Some digital cameras also have a tracking function that allows the user manually give priority to a single face. This comes in handy when taking photos in a crowd, at school plays and similar function.
Face the digital camera A person’s face must be facing towards the camera for Face Recognition AF/AE to work most effectively. Like so many digital camera features, it also works best when taking photos in good light.
Face Recognition, also known as Face Priority, is typically activated when switching a camera to portrait mode or a dedicated face-detecting shooting mode. Since the technology is hardware based, it is generally faster than manually composing and locking focus and exposure on a face.
A word of caution about using face detection It’s important to note that Face Detection (FD) may be associated with a multi-point autofocus mode, where the camera, not you, determines where to focus. When a face is not detected in a scene, the camera will revert to this mode.
Many photographers find multi-point autofocus mode to be inconsistent, if not unreliable. They use Single Area focus instead to have precise control of where the camera locks focus. They only switch to FD mode when photographing people.

Hi
The powershot s5 IS does in fact have some strange behaviour issues especially on the first rev firmware. For example if you take 15-20 flash photos consecutively without powering down your camera the flash recycle times will increase to about 15sec, so you'll have to wait about 15sec before you can take another flash photo. The work around is to power down the camera and then turn it back ON. Another strange behaviour is manifested by its inability to lock focus after taking a "no-flash" photo, then popping up the flash and trying to take a flash photo. Again the work-around is to power down the camera, pop-up the flash and then power it back up. Confirmed these behaviours in two other cameras of the same model.

1 it is generally due to poor focusing. 2 check crt base for loose or focus control wire loose. 3 if monitor is very old then crt might be weak. good luck.

There are several factors that can contribute to getting better focus and improved results. 1. Auto Focus / Auto Exposure lock. Press the shutter button down HALF WAY. The camera will attempt to adjust exposure to the current lighting environment for maximum benefit. Then the camera will automatically correct the focus based on objects in the center of the display. This process usually takes about two to three seconds. 2. Be sure not to cover the sensor on the front of the camera with your finger. This will disable the automatic focus and exposure controls. 3. Only us the MACRO MODE for CLOSE-UP photography. Be sure to use MACRO MODE if you are taking pictures of an object at less than six inches away. Be sure not to use Macro Mode for Normal Photography. Using MACRO MODE improperly will result in poor focus (also known as 'fuzzy pictures'). 4. Motion can cause a "blur" effect. Either motion of the subject, or motion by the photographer. This phenomenon is just like traditional photography. Moving objects may appear to blur, and this will be even more evident in lower lighting situations as the shutter speed slows down to allow for more light. The shutter will react faster in bright light, and motion will not be as apparent.

There are several factors that can contribute to getting better focus and improved results. 1. Auto Focus / Auto Exposure lock. Press the shutter button down HALF WAY. The camera will attempt to adjust exposure to the current lighting environment for maximum benefit. Then the camera will automatically correct the focus based on objects in the center of the display. This process usually takes about two to three seconds. 2. Be sure not to cover the sensor on the front of the camera with your finger. This will disable the automatic focus and exposure controls. 3. Only us the MACRO MODE for CLOSE-UP photography. Be sure to use MACRO MODE if you are taking pictures of an object at less than six inches away. Be sure not to use Macro Mode for Normal Photography. Using MACRO MODE improperly will result in poor focus (also known as 'fuzzy pictures'). 4. Motion can cause a "blur" effect. Either motion of the subject, or motion by the photographer. This phenomenon is just like traditional photography. Moving objects may appear to blur, and this will be even more evident in lower lighting situations as the shutter speed slows down to allow for more light. The shutter will react faster in bright light, and motion will not be as apparent.