I got a 19965 sebring 2.5 6 sel, got now spark,tested every thing up to cap and roter working good, i git engin flashing light code1-2-2-4-1-1-5-5 what is this code

Without knowing what type vehicle it is I can only direct you to here:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

check your distributer the cap and roter may be bad or you may find thr distributer is not turning you will have to test to find out. remove cap if it is corroded replace cap with rotor to match. while off crank engine to see if rotor turns it should . if this was helpful please leeve good feedback

why not all spark plug wires, they dont last the life of any engine.
and cap and rotor.
finish the full 60,000 tuneup and dont skip parts. is this hard?

stalls can be caused by many a thing the EFI works real hard to stop all stalls, and does so very well in 1996, (not now, due to throttle by wire BS)
96 cars are the best cars ever made, all of them.
it has OBD2 scan tool support. making it 10x easier to fix.
ever used a scan tool even a $9 fleabay tool works 100% on 19965 cars. Get one.

Now we do stalls. (engine size stated so will use generic answers)

1. Lost 12vdc to the EFI system. (see scan tool go, NON COMM, at stall? and dash lights go dim or head lights go dim? ) easy this.
2. EGR valve stuck open (if you have one) is #1 cause of EFI stalls.
3. next is never doing a real 60k tuneup ever. so common we like to use crying towels. really. so sad to watch the pull gas tanks and pumps all for the lack of simple tuneup and simple tools.
4. Gross Misfiring, any mech can drive the car and hear it and feel it.
5. loss of fuel pressure. (bogs then stalls and no misfire shaking)
6. Gross flooding. (many causes, we look for black spark plug tips. and other scan tool tests. (fuel trim )
7. Ever scan it for DTCs at the stall?
8. Ever scan it ever? for any DTCs ever? of any kind?
9. serious engine problems, lost compression. (any cylinders or all)

there are tests for each one.
we do engine first
spark then fue
after a real 60k tuneup and it stalls. still.

no fuel can burn with no spark
no spark can run a bad engine.

Misfires are caused by fuel delivery problems, injectors or too rich or weak. Spark issues, coil, wires, spark plugs or the cap and roter.
I could also be a loss of compression. First thing to check is the easiest... spark plugs, spark and cap and roter. Also the cheapest.

I am having the same problems with mine,, new EGR valve, new plugs wires, cap and rotor along with coils all tested good.

i still have my check engine light flashing on and off and the only codes the car pulls is misfire in #1 cylinder, nothing seems to fix this??? what going on?

Have someone help you,, open the oil cap and look with a flash light to see if the cam is moving,

It sounds like it could be the timing belt,

If the top end is ok, check fuse for fuel pump and ignition,, there should also be a relay for the pump check to see if its clicking when key is first turned on.

Check for gas and spark,

If you are sure they said, a distributer cap a roter and a distributer, there is a problem! Because on a 1998
plymouth, there is no distributer or cap or roter.
Your cam sensor along with the crank sensor-temp sensor and a few other sensors, send a signal to the
powertrain control module, that sends a signal to the
coil pack(that you said was replaced) that fires the
spark plug. I would hold off from having any further
work done there, until you can check out what they
say they have already done. Ask if you can have the
old parts they replaced so far. You will want to have
an OBDII scan test done, to see what codes come up. It should have one of the first tests they did.
If I have read your post correctly, have them write an
estimate for what they will replace next. This info. is
based on the car being a 1998 plymouth and not a
1988 I would not wan't to acuse somone of anything
based on a typo. Hope this helps. Good luck.

If you put marks on correctly just leave it alone and look at plug wires, cap and roter and possible coil or coils.

3 things make an engine run, fuel, electrics and gearing, first thing, remove the cap and crank the engine, determine if the rotor is moving, this will eliminate a broken cam, sprockets, chain or broken teeth on the distributer. next with the ignition lights on rotate the roter button by hand in between contacts, you should hear and see small spark, replace the cap and crank engine with a plug lead off, ask a friend to see if it is sparking onto metal nearby. Next remove fuel line and crank engine to see if fuel pushes from the line. then that leaves gearing, timing must be correct, check the lead numbers are in correct firing order and timing is right. Hope this guide helps you, Good luck

first thing you got to do is determen weather its electrical or fuel problem, you can take a test light and hook to a ground and the light end to a spark plug and see if it lights while someone turns over engine, if it lights you got spark. if its got spark, on to fuel, take fuel pressure test, don't think because you can hear pump working does not mean it is, it can sound like it is but its not, at least putting out enought pressure, not the correct amount it will not run. pumps will go out just that way with no warning at all.