Why wont dryer heat up after changing out coil ?

if you had heat in the dryer before you changed anything in the electrical box then i doubt very much it has anything to do with the dryer.if you have a meter you can check at the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer before you start messing with the dryer

You will use an ohm meter across the two terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer, and also read the receptical to make sure 220v is getting to the dryer...one hot lead to ground should read 110/120v.
When both leads read 110/120v then that is your 220v.
Here is a little more info for you:

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi,
Yes you should get resistance across the coil...it will vary from coil to coil....

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

Check out this tip that will give more details…

Gas dryer not working gas dryer not heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not


If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
Check out this tip to see the things that can fail to cause your electric dryer not to work.

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric dryer wont heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won


heatman101

Assuming this is a full size 240v dryer (you never said what it is) you should have 240 volts across the two angled prongs in your receptacle (L1 and L2). 120v across either ONE angled prong to the "L" shaped prong (neutral).
If it a 120v dryer your voltages are alright.
It sounds like the door switch is open.

there's a thermal fuse that usually is the problem. when you push the start button; listen for 2 clicks. The motor centrifugal switch & than the coil on your valve. If you only hear 1 click, replace t-fuse. if you hear 2 clicks than ck for problems in the flate sensor,ignitor,gas valve

is it gas ? next time open dryer door and send full model number if it heats for a while you have bad gas coils,when you change them out watch out for the coil with three prongs on it,there is a metal piece that sometime gets stuck in old coil when you remove it,if it happens just poke it out of old coil and slide it back on post where new coil will be installed

leave the dryer plugged in,remove the terminal block cover on the back of dryer,test the 2 outside leads on the terminal block to see if you have 120v on each leg from the wall,let me know-mike

Sounds like your heating element is burned out (acually burned threw) when you moved it if the element was weak it may have broke in two along the coil wires.
Happens alot.

make sure that your vent is not plug up can you go outside your house and feel good air coming out the vent when the dryer is turn on if so the only other things it could be is the coils that sit on the ignotor assmebly or the high limit termistat is not working properly the coils are little black circle coils that sit in the ignitor assmly should have a metal braket across the top of them holding them in you can check resistance on these coils if you have an meter

Jess, the model number comes up as a Crosley electric dryer. Start first at the terminal block where the cord attaches. Should read 120V from each end to center and 240V across the two outer. If this is ok, check the thermal cut out, this will be the top limit switch on the heater housing. Should read closed. Ohm out the element itself with the wires off, should show continuity. You should have 240V across the terminals on timed dry. If that checks good, go to the motor harness. One leg of power to the element goes through that switch. Check that all the wires are intact in the harness and reseat it. Check these things first...Catriver...post back.