2 backlight inverters for Samsung LN46A850S1FXZA in my Samsung TV while trying to fix. I have no pic but has sound, images can be seen with flashlight test. I thought the TV had an LED driver built into the power supply that I needed to replace for my backlight to be fixed. the inverters are model LJ97-01807A and same number plus B. both are at the bottom of the set both attached to the T con board??
Yes. That is it. Replace it. Before replacing, check the input voltage to it from the main poser supply SMPS board. If the voltage is absent, there will be no back-light. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
SOURCE: part number for the samsung le52m87bd backlight inverter
Hey!
I also have a SAMSUNG LE52M87 LCD TV and I have the same
ANOYING BUZZ comming from ( I think ) backlight converter. - I am
almost 100% that its because of the backlight inverter while the sound shifts frequency when backlight is changed ( from 1 - 10 ), but the volume of the buzz stays the same. Only the tone changes. I have this TV for a year now and havent realy noticed until now, so I think it started buzzing recently, because I didnt hear it before ( and I got realy sensitive hearing :) ) ...
ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY ...
PLEASE post what happened when ( if ) you changed the inverter,
or what did you do to solve the problem ...
Many thanks in advance!
Eddie from Slovenia
my email: [email protected]
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
http://www.smpcshop.com/KDL-40WL135-KDL-46WL135-p-8895.html
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause"
it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
SOURCE: Have an Element LCD model
Hi Jeramy.
These TVs are indeed re-branded Polaroid. You will not find the service manual under Element. You must find the equivalent Polaroid TV.
The Polaroid Flx-3202 is the same as element flx 3202 and 3212 the FLM-3237 is slightly different. Element were re-branded for Circuit City.
Polaroid service manuals won't be a great help, they are written to do board swapping. This TVs are cheap, and board swapping is all the repair that Polaroid ask the technician to do.
The service manual for 3237 is available on the Internet, but it is quite different, check if the two units have the same 37 pins sub, that is the part to be tested if PSU is OK, and there is no power to display (user upload Here Polaroid Service Manual-no t a great help). The other two are not available. Service manuals and bulletins can be ordered through Polaroid service contact.
When inverter and PSU are integrated, you check PSU voltages. There should be a control line from main board (or circuit). It may be passing through a sub board. If you have sound and LED on the AC main and DC-DC sections of the PSU should be OK, in DC-DC, check if there is power to the section going to the backlight (it is not a proper inverter). If that section has power in and no output, then the fault is likely in there.
If PSU is OK, a main failure is possible, but uncommon, the faulty part when PSU works well is the LCD panel.
Hope this will help.
Bye .
Ginko.
You only have 3 modules in the back of that unit, the wifi and the sound master board and the video board. Samsung knows they have a issue with some, there is a diagnostic mode that will help you to determine, I would contact tech support before I bought a 350.00 module just to confirm, however I think your on the right track
SOURCE: Polaroid 3211-TLXB solarized / negative image
Just replace the T-Con board and you dont need any soldering at all. JUst be careful for the flex connector.
Testimonial: "Will do. Thank you, Jorge!"
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