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I see that you are having trouble with setting the temperature of your oven on your range, model# FGB24S5A, after a power failure. I also see that you have reset your appliance by unplugging it and are receiving an error message of SAG or 5AB. I have looked into the model number that you have listed and it shows as a wall oven. I also do not show either of those error codes you have shown. If you can please get me the model number off your range, so I can better assist. The model number will either be right inside the oven on the back of the door or it may be located inside the bottom drawer. Looking forward to hearing from you.
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
Hello steve o - Typically error code F11 indicates a shorted keypad. Try resetting the range by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. This usually will clear most false error codes. Wait approximately ten minutes and if the error code does not clear contact a professional to move forward accurately. Most likely the EOC on the range will need replacing.
This issue is the oven got too hot during self clean. There is a thermo-fuse to the display on the right hand side directly to the board. But this fuse does not show up in the wiring diagram. Also you have have taken out a second thermo fuse on the backwall to the oven in which it must be removed from the cabinet to replace. I need a model number to direct you on the correct parts, and location of this parts.
Get back to me with more information..
With the glow bar going and no gas smell that means you have a good circuit from control to valve and glow bar. For that glow bar to work it must change in resistance. If it is weak it won't change enough resistance to make the gas valve bi-metal open. Also the gas safety valve does not come preset and usually is bottomed out all the way for propane. You must adjust the orifice to aprox the same height as the old one to get the propah gas output for natural gas.
if your old valve did not leak and has continuity between the terminals it is fine. The ignitor/glowbar is weak. If it is dim orange that is usually a way to tell. Bumping the stove makes the bi-metal come on also is a sign of a weak glowbar
These things are a pain! When you first power up a lot of New Workd ovens, they come up in AUTO mode and the oven won't work, so you have to take it out of auto mode and stop the clock flashing. I'm giessing that though your clock DISPLAY isn't working, the clock is and the oven think it is.
There are 6 buttons below the clock display.To take it out of AUTO and stop the clock and oven thinking the display is flashing:
Numbering the buttons from left to right as 1,2,3,4,5 and 6 (because they have silly symbols!) press the 4th button (a picture of a hand) you will hear a little click and the oven will now work. If you have to power the unit off for more than about a minute at any time, you will need to do this again
The manual says error code "F1" means a problem occurred in the circuitry and suggests pressing "CLEAR" to reset it. If the problem persists, contact a repair guy.
See page 19: http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Springfield/316257104en.pdf
"This oven is equipped with a state of the art electronic oven control. Among its
many features is a full time oven circuit diagnostics system. The control constantly
monitors its internal circuitry as well as several crucial oven circuits to insure they
are all operating correctly. If at any time one of these systems fails, the control will
immediately stop operation, and beep continuously (flashing an error code of F1,
F3 or F9 in the display window, if equipped). Electronic control has detected a fault
condition. Press CLEAR to clear the display and stop the beeping. Reprogram
oven. If fault recurs, record fault number, press CLEAR and contact an