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Re: Fan runs, control panel lights up compressor not...
Could be a start run capacitor failed
I suggest that you get a fridge technician to check ti out first as a compressor is generally more expensive than a new unit.
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Possibly a faulty run capacitor in the control box. This is fairly common to LG. the fan motor and compressor use them to start and run more efficiently and when they fail the fan or compressor either don't start at all or run poorly. You can usually tell if you can hear the compressor 'hum' briefly then stop every 10 - 30 secs. this is the compressor trying to start but unable due to the faulty part. LG often have a dual capacitor (two capacitors in one case) so the fan may stop working also or at least run slower. They are common parts available at most electrical wholesalers although the genuine LG parts are normally dirt cheap. Need a model to check the circuit diagram to be more certain.
With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.
If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.
If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,
Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.
I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.
Click this link http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/5R031172-00001.png if you have assured that the compressor is running and starting by removing the rear panel and you have also assured that the units main control board is functioning properly which is located at 500a on the diagram above. I would check this main board I personally have repaired many of these units and the LG electronics are not made well and usually become problematic within 2 years on this unit and a similar kenmore unit also made by LG. Have you assured that also the compressor fan is working as well? I await your reply Thank you Rick
This is a 6 or 8 bottle free-standing wine cooler from what I can tell.
I am not having much luck determining if this is a manual defrost type unit or not. Given the inital sales price now of $79.95 I have to assume it is a manual defrost type.
There are a few things that can cause your problem.
1. PTC relay and KliXon thermal overload assy on the compressor.
2. Run capacitor
3. Temp control
You said the fan does not run so I cab not rule out the temp control.
I can not even find a parts break down of the unit.
With no fan running the very first suspect is the temp control but you can at least listen for a CLICK when you cycle it from off to any other position. If you hear a click I would start looking at compressor start / run parts.
If you have access to your units compressor note the manufacturer, hp if stated (1/8hp etc) and Model number.
Then call or visit your local appliance parts supply store with that information in hand. The will have a PTC relay / KilXon thermal overload AND run capacitor that will fit your unit. I am pretty sure that will get you going again UNLESS you have a broken wire somewhere.
The replacement parts are going to run about 50% of the cost to replace the whole thing.
check if the compressor working if it working and you get frost in your freezer back panel then your problem is in your freezer area but if your compressor not working then and the fan next to it working then the starter unit for the compressor is bad....let me know if you need more help 911service today . com
Do not assume the problem is related to the compressor or the sealed, hermetic system; these types of problems happen only rarely. Your unit may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn't seal tightly, or a defective temperature control.
1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to "cold." Normally, the temperature inside the unit should be about 37 degrees Fahrenheit.
2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the unit are both set to cool.
3) Listen for the compressor fan, where the compressor is located (typically behind or beneath the refrigerator. When the freezer fan is operating, the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time).
4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the unit will offer very little cooling or none at all.
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need to check to see if your condensor fan is running. this fan is located by the compressor. it will run at the same time the compressor is running. this fan keeps the condensor coils cooled off. if its not running then the unit tries to cool down through the cabinet
This is a Sub Zero and many technicians do not realize that these units most all run on 2 separate systems. 2 cold controls 2 compressors 2 evaporators. They share a condenser and condenser fan motor. What you are describing is most likely a bad cold control. It is pretty common for these to get some age and go bad. If you are very savvy with repairs yourself then if you access the compressor area and feel that the compressor on the right is cool and the compressor on the left is warm then you know that the ref. compressor has not been running. UNPLUG THE UNIT OR CUT THE BREAKER OFF. Remove the shelving from the fresh food section and the cover to the lights and the panel below the lights and lean the back panel forward to access the cold control. You will see 3 wires to the cold control. The green wire is the ground wire of corse. Unplug the other 2 wires remembering their location on the control unit. Take a jumper wire and jump these 2 wires. If when you power the unit up the right side compressor comes on then you know that your fresh food cold control is bad. Replace fresh food cold control.
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