The colour is coming off the oven knobs and the control panel.(brass fittings)

Sealed burner ranges the orifice is in the center of each burner, down inside(brass color). Open style burners the orifice should be under the lift off burner or in some case where the burner tube goes back to the control panel at the control knob. Almost all will be brass color. Oven orifices are at the end of the burner tube where the gas would come into the burner. Air adjustments are usually right near the orifices. A small sliding window with 1 screw holding the adjustment in place.

The knob part has a small slot on bottom side near the brass plate.
Get on the floor and look up.
Locate slot. Take a photo so you can enlarge what you see.

There is a metal tongue that is clicked down into the slot. This holds the knob from coming off.
Use small screwdriver to push up the tongue at the same time you are pulling to remove the knob.

Once the knob starts coming out, you have to pull screwdriver out of the way.
Knob comes off.
Brass plate covers the screws. Use screwdriver on edge of brass plate to remove. Notice brass place has small indents where a screwdriver can fit.

Once plate and knob are off, you have access to screws.
Take photos as you go so everything goes back smoothly.

When putting knob back, the tongue might have to be pushed so knob goes on.
Push knob into place until you hear tongue click into slot.

I can only speak for the 720. If you want a circuit/wiring diagram for this one, then I need an email address. I will then register this on my BT Digital Vault and you can the download the whole manual.
Looking at the diagrams, the neon for the main oven has white and black wires.
The white wire from the main oven neon goes onto the same connector on the thermostat block as the white wire to the oven element. The black wire from the neon goes to a common terminal on the top oven neon, which then goes onto P6 of the top oven switch (still black wire).
If you need any more info, then let me know.

I SOUNDS LIKE THE SELECTOR SWITCH INSIDE HAS STUCK ONE OF THE TABS TOGETHER. THEY ARE A SMALL ROW OF BRASS FINGERS THAT CONNECT WHEN THE KNOB IS TURNED..

call manufactuerer and ask if you can order one or try to do so online

trying to find a solution for a broken knob, i discovered that there aren't many decent options. so i took it upon myself to find one. my father actually recommended that i post the solution, seeing that there were so many with broken knobs. now this works on the timer knob on an oster 6232 toaster oven. it may work on the other knobs and possibly other models, but i cannot confirm that. the plastic stem of the knob that slips over the medal stem of the timer had broken. i crazy glued it back together and knew that there was no way in hell it would hold up with just glue. sorry for the lack of pics on this part. with the broken piece glued back in place, i went to home depot to find something/ anything that would securely slip over the stem of the knob. i tried all sorts of tubing. copper, pvc, steel and found nothing. in the plumbing isle with all the brass fittings and compression fittings, i found an "ander-lign compression nut" 5/8" OD w/ insert. part # A-304 961-P.
all you need is the brass flanged insert. if you can find it without the nut and compression ring, then more power to you. after buying this, slip the piece over the knob stem flanged end first. i used 5 minute opoxy to ensure it would stay in place.
i then used a cone shaped diamond bit in my dremel tool to notch out the two sides of the knob.
just cut the brass down enough to match the notches in the stem of the knob.
and there you have it. sorry for the 2 blurry pics. hope this can help some of you.

Yes, it could be the knob or the oven control.

If the knob fits tightly to the control, and turns the stem of the control, then I would be suspect of the control. But if the knob fits loosely, I would be suspect of the knob.

HI HERE THE STEPS TO DISASSEMBLEA gas range cabinet comes apart very easily. Here's how:
Step 1: Take out the screws that hold the panels, and pull off the control knobs. On the control panel the knobs are friction-fit; pull them straight off. Some knobs may have setscrews in the base of the knobs; back out these screws using a screwdriver or Allen wrench and pull off the knobs.

Step 2: Remove the back service panel on the control panel by backing out a series of screws around the edge of the panel. To remove the front panel, take off the control knobs and remove a series of mounting screws that hold the decorative panel to the frame. These screws may be hidden by molding or trim; pry off the molding or trim with a screwdriver, or take out several screws.

Step 3: To gain access to the burner assemblies, remove the burner grates and then the top of the range. The entire range top should either lift up and off the range or open up and back on hinges. The oven door can usually be removed by pulling it straight up off the hinges on both sides of the door. Some hinges have a latch that must be unlocked before the door can be removed.

Step 4: If the surface light of the range burns out, remove retaining screws and panels as necessary to gain access to the bulb. Replace the burned-out bulb with a new one of the same type and wattage; check the ends of the old bulb for this information. Then replace any retaining panels.

Step 5: If the oven light burns out, unscrew it and remove it from the oven. Replace the burned-out bulb with a new one of the same wattage, made for oven use.   

PLEASE RATE IT.........................

switch part of the stat mounts behind the front panel in the position of the temperature control knob. there is a capilliary tube coming out of the stat and the bulb at the end of this mounts in the oven.

OK sista62, here is your solution. The problem is that the thermocouple that controls the valve supplying gas to the ovenjet is not working. A new thermocouple is available from http://blgas.com.au/online/category4_1.htm and will cost about AUD$40.00.


The control valve is located right behind the knob on the frontpanel (the centre one that controls both the oven and the grill.) You will see two small copper tubes going into the control valve. These are the thermocouple tubes, one comes from the griller and the other from the ovenjet. All the other knobs only have one thermocouple for each of the topplate burners.

If you want to test before you buy, disconnect the thermocouple from from one of the topplate burners and connect it to the one for the oven control valve. Now turn on the topplate burner and keep it going by holding the knob down on the front panel for this burner. Now light the oven burner and it should stay on.

Good luck.