My ac is set on 70 auto, but it's 80 degrees in my home and the air feels like a fan coming out the vents. Also every morning I wake up to a frozen ac unit outside and inside unit also freezes to.

There are only two things that cause an evaporator coil to freeze.
1. Lack of air flow, (blower, filter, dirty evaporator coil, blocked ductwork etc.) there must be enough air passing the coil to allow the refrigerant to pick up the heat that is in the air..
2. lack of refrigerant- if the system has leaks and has lost refrigerant the evaporator coil will ice and this will carry out to the suction line at the condenser. (I have never seen the entire condenser freeze, only the large copper line back to the compressor.)
Steps you need to take:
1. I know this sounds crazy, but you must get full flow across the indoor coil , the easiest way to thaw the unit is to turn the heat on. make sure your drain line from the evaporator is clear and have old towels around as this is the quickest way, but also the messiest way to thaw the unit. If you feel uncomfortable turning the heat on, or do not want to make a water mess, then turn the thermostat to fan "ON" and cool "OFF" it will take considerable longer, but the mess is minimized, and will eventually thaw the coil. You need to visually access the indoor coil to verify that it is fully thawed and that all ice is gone. This may require taking the door off of the box with the two copper lines entering it, you may be able to just take off a few screws and see up into the box with a flashlight. During this thaw period, go to the outside unit and AFTER removing the fuse block or shutting the breaker off, use your garden hose to wash the outside coil use moderate water pressure and remove any debris and dirt that is collected in between the small fins on the coil. CAUTION: do not use too much pressure, if you bend the fins over you may cause damage.
2. After the indoor unit is thawed and dry, and the outside unit is clean and dry, You need Verify the blower inside is operating properly (turning at full speed) and that it is clean, this is verified by turning the thermostat to "Fan ON" taking the blower (furnace) door off and visually inspecting. The unit should be equipped with a small switch on the corner of the blower door frame that will need to be depressed to allow the blower to operate. if it is a squirrel cage style, the concaves can become full of dirt and debris and not push enough air. make sure your filter is clean or take it out all the way. CAUTION: there is line and low voltage as well as rotating hazard while performing this operation, if you do not feel safe or comfortable doing this, call a technician.

2. With the system operating in cool, (after you thaw the coil and indoor unit out, and clean the outside coil of any dirt or debris that is on the coil) go to the outside unit, your hand on the large copper line coming from the house, this line should feel cold, and may be wet, depending on humidity. the other line (small one) should feel warm or hot to the touch. If the line temperatures do not feel right you most probably have a refrigerant leak. The system is low or out of refrigerant. Shut the outdoor unit off as quickly as possible using the fuse block or breaker. The compressor is cooled by the refrigerant returning from the evaporator, if you let it run too long in this condition, you could destroy the compressor. (Think car with no antifreeze...) . Proper repair of this condition will require location of the leak, repair and recharge. If you find this to be required, you need to call an experienced technician as this in not a DIY project. Hope this helps!

I know that it sounds weird that low refrigerant charge will cause the coil to freeze, the easiest explanation I can give without getting into a physics dissertation is : as the refrigerant pressure lowers, the temperature lowers, the water in the air then condenses and the coil temp being lower than 32 degrees freezes the condensation.