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when adjusting torsion bar suspension ,the secret is to jack the car completely off the floor so that the wheels hang down. This removes the load on the adjusting bolt
could be that emergency is stuck on, sometimes pulling of the cables will loosen them up. If you are trying to adjust the brakes, are you sure you are backing them off and not just tightening them more? Sometimes a bad rubber hose can break down and maintain the pressure on the brake cylinders, locking them up. I would remove the wheels and back off the adjusters and free up the emergency to get the drums off. Once brake adjustment problems are eliminated to can work at figuring out if the rearend itself is broken/locked up.
try replacing the adjusters if havent already and does it have the automatic adjusters on it. If not try backing off the adjusters some and see if that works.
TO ADJUST HAND BRAKE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE CONSOLE.TO ADJUST HANDBRAKE CABLE.ONCE CONSOLE REMOVE YOU WILL SEE A LOCKNUT.LOOSEN LOCK NUT WHILE HOLDING THE ADJUSTING NUT WITH A WRENCH TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTING NUT UNTIL THE DESIRED TRAVEL IS ATTAINED.THEN TIGHTEN THE LOCKNUT.
Check the shift cable for proper adjustment. Remove the console, put shift selector in N (make sure wheels are blocked), remove lock pin from cable adjuster, check that the hole in the adjuster is perfectly in line with the hole in the shift cable. (there are 2 holes in the end of the shift cable positioned 90degrees apart to allow for 1/4 turn adjustments) If not perfectly aligned, loosen the lock nut on the shift cable and adjust as necessary. Tighten the lock nut and install the lock pin in the adjuster. If the lock pin feels like it's binding when being installed, it's still out of adjustment and must be adjusted again. The key staying in the start position: try spraying wd-40 or similar lubricant into key hole, if condition is the same, you will need to change the key ignition assembly, as it is worn out,
Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle assembly by removing one black 14mm nut from just above the door handle, and 1 screw (usually phillips) from the bottom of the plastic cover. Remove linkages from lock cylinder and door handle assembly. Use a small flathead screwdriver to slide retaining clips forward, and linkages will come free. Remove one black 14mm nut from the very top of the door handle assembly. Remove one phillips screw drom the bottom of the door handle assembly. Door handle assembly should now come free by pulling out slightly at the top, and pulling upwards. Transfer lock cylinder and key minder light (if applicable) to new door handle assembly. Lock cylinder is retained by a single TORX bolt. Reinstall in reverse. TIP: If you lose or damage any of those black plastic coated nuts, order new ones. They are GM p/n 10067214 and should be around $0.58/each. There are two on each door.
You will not find an adjustment for this, it is a simple rod that connects from the handle to the latch/lock mechanism. It may have some wear on it so that it doesn't unlatch the mechanism. I have see them just not work from being dirty, you might try lubricating the latch/lock mechanism with a spray white lub or a penetratinglub.
Bad PROPORTION VALVE ... the back brakes should only be doing 30% of the stopping with a bad proportion valve it will send more pressure to the back during braking and cause it to lock up. Good Luck and thanks for using FIX YA
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