I own a 2010 GC and all books back to 1988 jeep +wrangler.
know them well, owned them from 1988 to now, first EFI then.
that is correct to fix all cars we learn what works or does not both.
electrics are complex is way and x10 more now.
windows bad tracks or weak motors, or the kids proofing motor clutch is bad but is same deal bad motors weak or slips. in door.
all that takes is deep inspection even moving windows hands inside door even motor removed for sticking guides.
all cars made and the newer they are are
nightmare electric problems no exceptions any brand and x10 worse increasing every year up 20 years due to electrics x10 or more complex. !
even 10 ****** computers on board..(will it ever end)?
reading on line are ALL NG (nogood) posts on car, never good. posts
"Hello all my car runs perfect today." NEVAH"
Parasitic drain 101, it is and common on all cars, made.
aka. dark current , implies lamps still glowing where you cant see them//
the test on all cars ,boat planes and more are. the same!
we use a tool called an ammeter, the clamp on DC meter is prime.
at battery cable lug, see over(keyoff) drain of over 0.050amps aka
50mA,is out of spec. for most cars, less is best.
learn too that
batteries do fail and cause this
try a spare or borrowed battery yet?
Imagine:
ever seen the bottom of old batteries, with the plates removed?
and bottom full of lead mud so high it hits the plates shorting them out even totally at random, 10 year old batteries are
NO GOOD.
if not battery then it is
Phantom body drain not the battery bad
so we see say 1000mA drain
most like that is lamp stuck on, look at car in pure dark and find it.
eyes take 30mins to get there. so...wait and look next
OK that , no lamps seen so next is pull out fuses 1 by 1.
and the one that shows 0amps is the bad FEED. found
then you whip out the service manual Iike I have and red that fuse page and all loads off that use, 2 or 20 it can be. so we read the schematic and pull all those off the harness 1 by1.
bingo found it every time never me not finding it.
or tell that fuse and I tell you what next to pull.
the amp clamp meter works the best let me tell you why
1: well no wires or lugs to pull.
2: and do know pulling lugs on battery resets the ECU and more and many times doing that the phantom drain ends, making all test now useless until it does happen again. the meter most be DC 20/40 amps or less to see drain and most never be AC only amps . useless.
no connections at all just clamp any single wire.(key off drain)
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