Had power module repaired. On power up ERR0 error monitor light lite. Sensor for branch pipe A (narrow tube). What and where is it? Also what is the proper way to jump out test/run plug?

What engine ? Chevy K1500 ?
DTC P1345 Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) monitors the crankshaft position (CKP) and the camshaft position (CMP) signals to determine if they are synchronized. If both signals are not observed by the control module within a narrow time window, the vehicle control module (VCM) will determine that an error has occurred.
Diagnostic Aids
Check the following items:
• A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal
• Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly
• Incorrectly installed distributor - 1 tooth off in either advance or retard positions
• A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft
• A loose or missing distributor hold down bolt
An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:
• A poor connection
• Rubbed through wire insulation
• A broken wire inside the insulation
Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
If a repair is necessary, refer to Wiring Repairs or Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

The error 2 meant that the pressure sensor failed to detect expected pressure rise. This may caused by a failed sensor, abnormal sensor signal or sensor power source issue. It may also caused by a leaking cuff or tube (including internal tubes).

My failing monitor was caused by a bad power trace to the sensor on PCB, and broken tube between air reservoir, purge valve and the port. The tube is a T and was deteriorated. Had to make one myself.

I'm guessing that you are printing on narrow heat shrink. This problem is seen less often with wide tube. Here's why. The latest version of the K4350 has the media sensor slightly offset from dead center to accommodate certain types of side by side labels. Consequently, the electric eye that senses the presence of the media does not see the narrow tube and faults out, thinking there is not media in it. To fool the printer, place some opaque material where it will do the most good. Right under the sensor board. Look down in the throat of the printer when the carriage is open. You will see a tiny circuit board that has surface mounted components on it. The bottom side has the sensor that operates in conjunction with an infrared light source below the tube in a recessed area. From behind the carriage, slip a business card under the board, placing it forward until it almost touches the centering guides. Then tape it in place so it won't slip away and jam something up. Re-feed the tube over the card, but under the tiny board. The eye is totally blocked, so you will need to monitor the print process to make sure you don't run out of tube and start printing on the platen roller. That should work just fine for you. If that does not solve the problem, we're Hanover Technical Sales, Inc. Give us a call at 757-357-2677 and we'll help you thru the problem. Ask for Don

If the oven lights for 4 seconds and shuts off you are experiencing an ignition module safety lockout. First verify that the flame is lighting at the top of the burner and reaching the very bottom venturii tube where the flame sensor is located. If this bottom tube isn't lighting or it takes longer than 4 seconds to light then you have a dirty burner and it needs to be taken out and rinsed. If the bottom tube is lighting and then going out your flame sensor needs to be cleaned, which is easy.

Is refer at O2 sensor, Code 51 - Oxygen sensor output indicates lean too long

Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: Engine allowed to run rich, but prevented from running lean

Possible Causes
Bad oxygen sensor - Replace the sensor which is located on the turbo housing near the down pipe (for turbo) or on the down pipe near the exhaust manifold.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts. Look for melted wire insulation near the exhaust manifold. A shorted connection to ground or any positive source will cause this fault code.

Low fuel rail pressure - See the Diagnosing Your Fuel System page.

Diagnostic Method - Trigger Parameters
- In closed-loop
- Sensor output indicates lean for more than 715 seconds (11 minutes, 55 seconds)

Results If Component Fails
A fault code 51 is stored, the circuit stays in closed-loop, and the logic module will still monitor the oxygen sensor signal. If the condition persists for four times what it took to set the code, the logic module will allow the engine to run rich, but prevent it from running lean.

Hope helps.

Fault Code 51 - Oxygen sensor output indicates lean too long

Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: Engine allowed to run rich, but prevented from running lean

Possible Causes
Bad oxygen sensor - Replace the sensor which is located on the turbo housing near the down pipe (for turbo) or on the down pipe near the exhaust manifold.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts. Look for melted wire insulation near the exhaust manifold. A shorted connection to ground or any positive source will cause this fault code.

Low fuel rail pressure - See the Diagnosing Your Fuel System page.

Diagnostic Method - Trigger Parameters
- In closed-loop
- Sensor output indicates lean for more than 715 seconds (11 minutes, 55 seconds)

Results If Component Fails
A fault code 51 is stored, the circuit stays in closed-loop, and the logic module will still monitor the oxygen sensor signal. If the condition persists for four times what it took to set the code, the logic module will allow the engine to run rich, but prevent it from running lean.

Hope helps.

You do not state the model of car so my answer is generic. The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve sits between the intake manifold and is connected to the exhaust manifold. The EGR device often looks like a circular alien space ship about 7 cm in diameter. Connected to its top is a narrow bore vacuum tube. It may also have an electrical connection on the side. The narrow bore vacuum tube is often connected to a DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust) sensor. The role of the EGR is to allow a certain amount of exhaust gas into the intake manifold to cool the internal ignition temperature so that nitrous oxides are not created in the exhaust. To fix the EGR remove any electrical connections and remove any exhaust feeder pipe that is connected to it. It is usually mounted with only two bolts. Remove the bolts, lift the EGR free and clean the ports and valve face with carburettor spray cleaner and a cloth. The valve should open and close in response to suction on an integral diaphragm (hence the vacuum tube connected to it). Check also that the exhaust feeder pipe is cleaned of carbon deposits, use a stiff wire (a length of frayed brake cable is excellent) and a tooth brush to work away at the carbon deposits. When everything is clean reassemble, reconnect the electrical contacts if any, and also refit the vacuum tube. If the check engine light stays on check the DPFE sensor. If the DPFE sensor is OK check that the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking fuel into the intake manifold: too rich an intake can sometimes cause a misread on the EGR

the monitor may be going into power save mode which it should come out of when you press a key or move the mouse but it sounds like you have tube inverter issues. Your screen has light tubes behind it to illuminate the screen, if the tubes or the inverter develop a fault, then a very dark screen can result as the tubes are turned off. There may also be an ambient light sensor which will darken the screen in low ambient light. If the sensor is faulty, darkened screens will result. If the inverter is failing, you may be able to replace it, contact viewsonic. if the tubes are failing, replace the panel or the entire monitor. If the ambient light sensor is faulty, replace the panel or entire monitor as the sensor is part of the display panel.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light). 3 blinks may be a restriction in either the air intake, exhaust pipe, condensate hoses air filter or a bad pressure switch or connection.

turn power off first. I would disconnect igniter wire which will be a thick orange wire that comes off of ignition module if it is spark. once you have that the end will look like a spark plug wire take shield away from metal then hold orange wire in hand close but not touching metal turn power on and it will take a couple of minutes before it should start sparking. If you don't see a spark then it is most likely the ignition module. There should be a red light on ignition module that will blink to tell you what the failure is if is is a newer on. When you turn power on to laars light 2 the inducer motor should come on then a pressure switch should send 24volt to gas valve for pilot to lite.Can you smell gas at all when laars should be igniting. If you have any questions fell free to email me back