Where can i find the small speakers inside the stereo?

make sure impedance is the same so 6 ohms and the power rating of speakers is no less than 200 watts peak rms.And bare wire ports on back of speaker.
The power rating is so the speakers can handle the maximum power delivered by stereo amplifier without burning out speakers coils.

The Int door trim cover held on with plastic body pins .They have barbs on them so they slide in easy but need to be pryed out once you get the first 1 then you can pop them out with your hands then allin and reuse them .
You will have to remove some things from the inside of the door window cranks mabey the arm rest it really depends on what model you have look for little plastic trim covers that pop out underneith things not much holds it on
Then lift the trim up out of the window track watch the speaker wires if you have door speakers .
You will have to remove some plastic to get at the door mechisiam don't rip it you want to tape it back on when your done .

The grill is glued on and will pop off with a little effort. Use a small pick tool (small pointy tool with a sharp hook) and carefully pry the screen away from the speaker. Try lightly prying in several spots so you don't warp or bend the screen. Let my know if you find replacement parts

If the rip is small enough, try using nailpolish to repair it. If you're looking at a piece of the material that's actually missing, you should just replace the woofer, because adding a patch will severely reduce sound quality.

If the coil on the inside is looking ripped, it must be rubbing against the inner walls of the magnet. check of failure of continuity of the coil. if open and rubbing then you will need to replace the coil. I shall guide you through this job. carefully disconnect the coil lines to the frame, then using a good sharp tool remove the side suspension and the inner spider that suspends the coil. now you can remove the whole assmebly. if the coil is damaged then slowly cut out the coil, get a replacement of the same diameter from the spare parts shop. if not available you will need to have some experience to wind the coil in the same diameter with the same SWG. Once you get the coil fix it carrefully to the speaker diaphragm centrally, then centrally place into the speaker mountings with the coil just in the gap, not rubbing against the magnets. now you can glue out the spider and suspensions. there you are. Good luck .

The little rip on the foam surround can be repaired easily with some pure silcone from a harware store. Make sure it's pure silicone, because the silicone mixtures may deteriorate the foam prematurely. Also, all you're really doing is plugging the hole that the rip makes so that air doesn't leak out and further damage the surround and also affect your sub's performance. You'll need to apply a thin to moderate coat of silicone to the rip, and make sure that some gets into the rip. Do NOT use globs or big lumps. You should apply some silicone to your finger, and carefully apply it to the area. Try not to get too much on the inside/backside of the rip. If you'd rather just get a replacement sub, you should be able to find the raw driver on eBay or at a local MTX dealer.

Radio 12v  orange  +  radio harness Radio Ground  black  -  radio harness Radio Ignition  dk. green  +  radio harness Radio Illumination  brown  +  radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on  orange  +  radio harness Notes: The amplifier is behind the glove box. Power Antenna  N/A     LF Speaker +/-  tan - gray  +,-  radio harness RF Speaker +/-  lt. green - dk. green  +,-  radio harness LR Speaker +/-  brown - yellow  +,-  radio harness RR Speaker +/-  dk. blue - lt. blue  +,-  radio harness

start with 2 screws under horizontal part of door grip, third one up high-- then remove window handle(if no power windows. then underneath the inside part of little door release pocket there is a plactic- 'cup another screw behind there. then it becomes a prying effort. There are about six to eight plastic 'christmas tree' shaped tabs that are along the bottom rail of the door and scattered throughout the middle. Be careful when prying the weak fiberboard away from metal. or the base of the 'tree' will rip throught the fiberboard and not be as effective when you replace them back in. (it is not a fatal mistake but one that I failed at miseably when first removing the panel.
start at the outside bottom corner with two long srewdrivers. one to slightly seperate the metal and press board then use other to help pull the 'bushy' part of the xmas tree out of the metal part of the door.

HI, not to long age i replaced my heater core in my 1991 Chevy S-10. Its not as hard as you mite think it would be, but its no a walk in the park.. :) There are a few things you need to remove. First the glove box door, ash tray, the panel that surrounds the stereo and stereo, also the tray that holds the ash tray and last inside the glove box there is a small plastic panel at the back remove that and that should do it if I remember right. Ok now the fun part, be prepared to get your hands a little bite beat up, you are going to need a lot of extension for your wratches, some antifreeze and lots of pattions also about three hours. Injoy Blake.

You will need to take the speaker apart and with an ohm meter or continuity tester, measure the resistance of the speaker right at the speaker to see if the speaker is open. if it is you have no choice then to replace the speaker. If the speaker measures a low resistance, measure the wires froom the speaker to the output wires or terminals. Some speaker manufacturers install small fuses inside their speakers. Good Luck