The pedal effects switch itself is broken, what are the specs for replacement?

Unfortunately, battery jacks and plugs similar to the type you're describing do not have any real standardization - unlike the outlets and plugs in homes and businesses have.

You best bet is to either bring the plug / jack to a shop to match it or contact the instrument's manufacturer to obtain the connector specs for physical dimensions

Be sure to obtain the power requirements in either watts or amps so that you can obtain a power source capable of delivering what you need without overheating during longer periods of use. Adding 25% to 50% more amps or watts to the minimum required should provide years of trouble free service. Example: 9VDC at 50 watts should be supplied by a 9VDC 62 watts or even 75 watts; or in the case of a rating of 9VDC at 6 amps should be supplied by a 9VDC at 7.5 amps or even 9 amps. With DC powered devices, make sure you observe proper polarity! Good luck!

did you try replacing the potentiometer that the knob is attached to?
Or hook and ohm meter and turn it to see if the changes are smooth and go the full range?

try manualslib.com if they have it.

Which Line 6 power supply? If you look at the specs stamped into the L6 supply you should see the voltage, current capacity, and polarity (if DC). Polarity would have a symbol showing an inner post and outer shell and indicate which is positive....referred to as positive or negative tip. Let me know what these specs are and I can have a better idea of what may have happened. Sounds like it burned out a protection circuit designed to protect the pedal from incorrect power applied. Will it still work with a battery?

Often the problem is the switch itself is broken internally. Test contiuity with an ohmmeter. If one really stomps on these the mechanism in the switch can easily be broken. Often the switch directely connects input and output with contacts and if those break, no bypass will be done but the effect position might still get through.

Here is an example of a USB to DMX convertor. You will need suitable software for DMX control as well.

http://www.usbdmx.com/

Most of these the battery is UNDER the pedal itself. You push in on the hinge pins with a pen to release and remove the pedal and change the battery.

Chances are the switch itself is defective... Either the toggling mechanism in it is bad or it has excessive contact bounce. Replace the switch.

Do you use the zoom-G1X? Try this:

source: Zoom G1x User Manual.

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