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There is a tool at a hardware store that has a 3ft "grabber" which will open when you push on the oposite end's button. It is small enough to get into the drain and hopefully get the plastic item.
Another tool I like and might get to it is a doctors hemostat clamp
that comes in handy for all kinds of DiY. It would probably work in this situation.
Liquid plumber or a good quality drain opener should disolve the foam things. Pour about a pint in and let it set for about 30 minutes, then flip the stopper up to seal off the drain. Run about 1/2 the tub full of hot water, open drain, and plunge rapidly with a plunger. This should fix your problem....(plumber 20 years)
Are you talking about the shower pan as in the part of the shower which you stand on? It is possible that you might be able to fiberglass the crack depending on the type of material which the shower pan (tray) is made of. Check with your local Home Depot for a fiberglass kit. Good Luck
My secondary bathtub is that way. I was told it was just a surface crack and wouldnt leak. It can be fixed with a fiberglass boat repair kit. However, it would not look very good. I took clear caulk and squirted into mine and it seems to be working fine. Once you put the caulk in rub it in with your fingertip and remove the excess.
From my own experience I had a crack in mine. I sanded the area I wanted to patch. I bought a fiberglass repair kit from the hardware store. I mixed the hardener with the resin and applied it without the cloth. Make sure you have good ventilation and don't get it on your hands. After it dried I sanded it smooth it didn't look the best so I hit with a little spray paint. I have since replaced the tub but it held until I was ready to do that. A couple of years. Hey if this helps give me a vote please.
The answer to this depends on whether you intend to have the bath re-enamelled (vitreous enamel) or whether you intend to use one of the proprietary DIY roller paint "enamelling" systems.
If you plan to have vitreous enamel then any company doing it will not guarantee the outcome or the finish unless you have them do all of the preparation; typically they'll blast the tub back to completely bare steel/cast iron and chemically wash it afterwards. Without this there's a good chance that when the tub comes out of the kiln there will be pinholes (a.k.a. birdseyes) in the finish. If this happens after they've done the prep they'll re-blast it and start again if need be, but not if it's your fault.
But if you plan to use the DIY system then all you need is a smooth and clean base so you can hire a blaster and do the job in your own workshop. Fill any pitting left by rust before repainting the bath, lead or two part epoxy car body filler do the job just fine. DIY kits don't give a great finish but they do look far better than a tired bath with chipped/cracked vitreous enamel if you can't afford to get the job done properly.
Acrylic is a solid sheet material that is heated and vacuum formed to the desired shape. It is then reinforced at the back with fiberglass to give it strength. It is a higher-end material, very durable and super easy to clean.
Fiberglass is a material that adheres to a mold and then a gelcoat finish is sprayed onto it. The most common material used in tubs and showers and is the most economical.
Cast iron tubs are forged and the finish is applied in powder form while the tub is hot causing the finish to melt onto the cast iron.
Synthetic tubs are molded and then a gelcoat finish is applied like the fiberglass tubs.