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Will try to help you checked the igniter you say good if good does it glow if so clamp on one wire and take an amp draw while heating I like to see a minimum of 3 amps if glowing and 3 and above change the coils on the gas valve very cheap, now if not glowing and good ignitor the fun begins power comes out of the heat relay on the control board passes thru the thermal fuse then thermal cut off then hi limit then the flame sensor while also feeding the gas coils the neutral is supplied thru the centrifugal switch on the tumbler motor if the dryer stays running the centrifugal switch is good and you have a neutral bad flame sensor very rare since I am not there check the thermal cut off once blown it does not reset has to be replaced if all the fused I mentioned check good then check the heat relay on the board black and red wire stick meter ends in both off should read 120 volt when machine turned on should hear it click and meter should read 0 volts the boards seldom go bad but I have replaced a few in 5 years I am leaning more towards an open thermal cutoff
Having checked or replaced what you have thus far here a few things still to check
Cycling thermostat in blower housing,in addition to thermal fuse it must have continuty to be good
Timer check wiring diagram in control panel and check for continuty that are supposed to be closed when set to a normal heat cycle
Motor switch heat circuit check again with wiring diagram and see which wires on motor switch must be closed when running so dryer will heat.This a built curcuit asurring the dryer will never heat when motor is off
If your model has it check heat relay in control panel for continuty on heating circuit for relay(not the circuit that closes relay)
as far as power to the ignitor the hot side comes from timer to and through the thermal fuse and cycling t-stat, to ignitor.the neutral comes from neutral wire on cord to and through motor when motor is running and motor switch is closed
so on ignotor plug check hot wire to ground(not neutral) if has 120 vac to it timer/t. fuse/ cycling t-stat and flame switch are all good and its the motor switch is the problem.The motor switch can not replaced seperatly and must replace entire motor
dont forget about thermal fuse on back of dryer white plastic with two wires can jump out for testing see if you get heat if so replace thermal fuse and clean venting adn venting flapper for opening and closing .... if no heat tthen open lint screen on top of dryer remove two phillips screws pull lid forward from back corners towards u and lift lid up remove front screws should be two 5/16 screws on in each corner and door switch harness connected lift front upwards and to the right remove drum belt tensioner bottom right side .. release belt remove drum set out of the way ... plug in dryer watch ignitor in burner tube bottom left corner should glow redish orange then a click and then a flame
no glow aslong as thermal fuse has been checked bad ignitor....
if glows and no click replace flame switch black and silver box on left side of burner tube
if glows and clicks and no flame replace two black round coils on top of gas valve
UNPLUG DRYER REMOVE TWO PHILLIPS SCREWS UNDER FILTER ON TOP LID ....
FLIP TOP TOWARDS WALL REMVOVE 5/16 SCREWS IN TOP CORNER OF CABINET AN LEAVE DOOR AND FRONT CONNECTED REMOVE DRUM BT RELIEV IDLER BELT TENSIONER INFRONT OF MOTOR AND SLIDE BELT AND DRUM OUT OF CABINET AND SET OUT OF WAY TURN DRYER IN TIMED DRYER NEAR 60 AND LAY ON FLOOR INFRONT OF DRYER ON FLOOR INFRONT OF DRYER INFRONT OF BURNER TUBE AND WATCH AND LISTEN IGNITOR SHOULD GLOW RED THEN A CLICK THEN IGNITOR SHOULD LIGHT GAS ..... IGNITOR DOSENT GLOW CHECK WHITE PLASTIC FUSE ... IF IGNITOR GLOWS AND NO CLICK THE REPLACE FLAME SWITCH ALUMINUM AND BLACK BOX ON LEFT SIDE OF BURNER TUBE ...IF CLICKS AND NO GAS REPLACE GAS COILS
does the ignitor glow?if it doesn't check the sensor for continuity,if it is glowing then you could have bad gas coils or a bad gas valve,let me know if it's glowing and send the full model number,you shouldn't jump out any of the parts,just check them with a meter,if it's bad change it out,if the fuse was bad it most likely popped from a dirty dryer,you most likely have a blocked vent line or the duct is backed up where the lint filter slides into,you could have damaged something else by jumping out the fuse,let me know what you find
it appears as if your unit has a small plastic plug/access hole cover below the left corner of the dryer door. if you remove that you should be able to look within the dryers burner area and observe what might be happening.. if when you turn the dryer to a normal timed cycle, on high heat and start the unit, shortly after the dryer begins running you should be able to observe the glow ignitor glowing through that access hole, and shortly after that hear a click and flames appear, if is not glowing then there are probably thermal fuses blown out on the backside of your unit, or the ignitor is bad. if however it does glow, and maybe even fire up once then all the safetys mentioned b4 are good.. now sit there and watch your ignitor/burner assembly.. the flame will cycle on and off depending on the dryers internal temperatures, but the main thing to look for is whether the ignitor glows, then fails to click then produce flames, if that be the case the gas valve coils are bad and need to be replaced part # is 279834 -
M STYLE COIL KIT hope this helps, best of luck, ttfn
,when you start your gas dryer you should here two clicks, if so then your ignitor should begin to glow if two clicks and no glow [its your ignitor] but you can use a volt meter and make sure 110 volts at ignitor if voltage replace ignitor with new.if not two clicks then its going to be your thermal fuse its in the same area as the burner Therese two kinds[only one in each dryer tho],both white having two wires and small, one looks like a missile the other a fling saucer.ither kind you can put the two wires going to it to gether ,isolate them with tape and try heating.if heats replace.now if fuse you need to check for any blockage,inyou house or dryer.over heating can cause the fuse to open if i can be of more help you can email thru fixya God bless ,tom
BE SURE THE GAS IS TURNED BACK ON. CHECK THE TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH TO BE SURE IT IS SETTING ON A SELECTION AND NOT BETWEEN SETTINGS. BE SURE IT IS NOT ON FLUFF AIR/NO HEAT. IF THAT IS ALL O.K., THERE ARE FOUR ITEMS TO CHECK IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT.
1. IGNITOR. CHECK FOR 120 VOLTS AT THE IGNITOR TERMINAL CONNECTION WITH DRYER RUNNING.
2. WATCH THE IGNITOR. IF IT GLOWS, CLICKS, GOES OFF WITH NO FLAME, ONE OF THE SOLENOIDS IS BAD. REPLACE BOTH.
3. IF THE IGNITOR COMES ON BUT NEVER SHUTS OFF,
THE RADIANT SENSOR IS BAD.
4. IF THERE IS NO RESPONSE FROM ANY OF THE CHECKS ABOVE, THERE IS A THERMAL FUSE ATTACHED TO THE EXHAUST PORT. IT MAY BE BAD. CHECK FOR 120 VOLTS ON THE TWO TERMINALS OF THE THERMAL FUSE WITH THE DRYER RUNNING. IF YES, THE THERMAL FUSE IS BAD.
The easiest way i can tell you if it is an ignitor problem or a thermal fuse or something else is to turn the timer to the timed section past 10-20 minutes then slowly turn the time back while the machine is running once you hit the last 5 minutes you should hear a click at the timer and at the gas valve. If you only hear a click at the timer and not at the gas valve it is probably a thermal fuse and control thermastat. If you hear a loud click at the gas valve it could be a bad ignitor .If you see an orange glow but no heat or intermitant heat the coils on the gas valve may be at fault
huntman, the model posted shows as a gas dryer. In the lower left side there is a square plastic peep hole. Take a putty knife and pull it off. Set the dryer to high heat and take a look in the hole. Does the ignitor glow? If it doesn't you either have a bad thermal fuse or a bad ignitor. Start with the thermal fuse. You will have to remove the back panel to get at it. I will attach a photo. You can ohm it out, or just jump the wires temp. to see if the ignitor glows. If theral fuse is good and the ignitor does glow, you probabley have a bad set of coils. These sit on the gas valve are easy to replace. The timer won't advance without the heat. Check this out first...Catriver..post back.