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Timothy Wall
Timothy Wall Posted on May 25, 2015
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Oven had been working fine. I shut the door hard, and the display blanked out.

The line fuse is okay, the three door interlock switches are okay, there is 12 volts to the connector on the back of the control panel circuit board...but the display is blank and there's no response to any membrane switch. There is no tech sheet inside the oven and I can't find any schematic online.

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MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 02, 2006

SOURCE: JVM1320WB001 1000W

The problem is damage to the control circuit board. This damage is usually caused by removing or installing light bulbs without disconnecting the oven from the power line first. We regularly repair these GE / Samsung smart boards for this problem for customers from across the country for $32.50. We have an important file called "safety.txt" which you can find by doing a search for "microwave safety.txt" on Yahoo.com. It's important information to consider before proceeding. When the varistor fails, it will be shorted. That will cause the whole oven to be "dead". It's almost certainly fine.

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MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 23, 2008

SOURCE: KitchenAid Superba combination built-in oven

It sounds like a stuck relay or other controller problem.

I don't have the service data on this one, but there should be a schematic or tech sheet / mini-manual either on the back side, behind the controls, or somewhere else inside.

If you or someone you know can locate them and scan and e-mail or copy & fax them to me, I can probably give you further guidance.

Please feel free to contact me directly.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 26, 2008

SOURCE: Panasonic nn-p295 blows buss fuse when turned on for cooking

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer. But this is likely an inverter model, so it wouldn't have one and would be some other component in the inverter I'd say.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics. Or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2010

SOURCE: Dacor DMT2420S Blank display, oven does not work

It sounds like you need to have the control panel assembly repaired or your CPU unit replaced and you need a new bottom door switch.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

Or you can order our exclusive modified control unit with our proprietary upgrades for $115, then if you return your defective control unit in repairable, good cosmetic condition, we'll give you a core refund of $30. It comes with a one-year guarantee. See details here.

We have the service manual and have uploaded it our site here to help you. It covers disassembly.

Also see this file.

You can order a universal type switch here for $5 postpaid.

Feel free to contact me directly for more help and information.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on May 02, 2010

SOURCE: no display on microwave touchpad for ge Model JKP62G

The GE JKP62G Microwave / Oven combination has an internal fuse behind the control panel for the microwave. The oven will operate but the microwave will be totally dead (no light, no clock). Turn off the breaker for the oven at the fuse box (30 Amp double breaker). In order to replace the fuse you will have to open the door to the microwave, remove the two screws (Torx) from the front control panel (located on the left edge of the control panel), wiggle the panel to the left (there are two metal tabs that stick into the metal frame of the microwave on the right of the panel) and then tilt the panel down from the top. There is a metal bracket that holds the control panel to the microwave at the bottom (don't remove it). Look towards the top of the microwave inside the area behind the control panel and you will see a 15 Amp screw in fuse. Replace the fuse and that should fix your problem.

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Troubleshooting Guide
  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.
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on Mar 30, 2008 • Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven
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Microwave will not run a cook cycle. Touchpad functions until door is opened or start button is pressed. When door is opened display goes dark. When door shuts display lights all characters and then says...
BEFORE DOING ANYTHING DISCONNECT OVEN FROM POWER. I do NOT recommend doing repair by yourself, if you NOT are really very familiar with electric repair, or have at least basic training in electric device repair and maintenance.
"When door is opened display goes dark. When door shuts display lights all characters and then says "touch clock"."
Obviously, by opening door, oven gets disconnected form power line.
This is mostly caused by loose connections on wiring socket, and can be anywhere inside. Check security micro switch on door latch. This switch normally disables only running the oven when door is open, for security reasons. In your case, it seems that opening door disconnects oven from input power. Sometimes the switch is loose, or wires are not firmly pushed in the socket. If the power line wiring is loose, and by opening door looses contact with socket, it can touch metal housing inside, cause short, electric shock, serious even mortal injury and fire. This is dangerous high voltage switch, and to access it one must open oven from the back and take off the cover. I do not recommend doing it by your self.
Rem: Replacement micro switch is couple dollars.
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Oct 24, 2014 • Microwave Ovens
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1answer

GE microwave oven model#JVM1441BH04 when you close door on switch activates and oven comes on. Only goes off when door is opened.
HELLO.

the problem your are experiencing with your microwave oven is a failed interlock switch.
Be careful when closing your microwave door. Slamming the door too hard is one of the main reasons that the interlock switch is damaged.

Slamming the microwave door shut can easily blow the microwave fuse, but they can also blow due to problems with the interlock switches.
A microwave oven will not function until the fuse is replaced.

Instruction on how to replace fuse on microwave.

1. Unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet to prevent electrocution. Place the microwave in a well-lit area to be able to locate the fuse.

2. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer cabinet of the microwave, and follow the power cord to the fuse. The fuse is located 2 to 3 inches within the microwave and is attached to the power board.

3. Observe the fuse to determine if it is blown. Blown glass fuses will produce burn marks on nearby surfaces, or the internal fuse wire will be black and melted, while ceramic fuses show no outward appearance of being blown.

4. Determine if a ceramic fuse is blown by testing it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is not blown. Other readings on the ohmmeter show that your fuse is blown.

5. Replace the blown fuse by popping it out of its holder, and snapping a new fuse in its place. Tighten the fuse clips by squeezing them together with your fingers.

6. Replace the outer cabinet of the microwave, and plug the microwave back into the electrical outlet. Test the microwave to see if it's working properly.

thanks.
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Sep 22, 2011 • GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven
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1answer

Dead, replaced fuse and it blew again.
The fuse is connected directly in series with the monitor switch. If it senses one of the door switches bad it will blow the fuse, this is there as an added safety to make sure the oven will not work without the door closed.

There are usually three and sometimes four door switches just inside and to the left of the control panel that are activated when the door interlocks with them. One of the switches is most likely bad. Typically it is the primary interlock which is on top. It can be checked with an ohmmeter, usually you can see it broken as the plunger will not go down or come up like the others.


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May 10, 2010 • Maytag MMV1153A Microwave Oven
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1answer

Advantium 120 blew breaker when door was closed. I reset breaker and it worked for three weeks. Breaker is blown again...when i open the door and reset breaker it works, but as soon as you close the door...
I'd suspect the interlock monitor switch is stuck, or its mounting bracket is out of adjustment. This is designed to blow the fuse if you try to run the oven while the door is open. The switch is supposed to open when you close the door. This switch is replaceable, but you should have this oven repaired by a professional. There are lethal voltages present with the cover off, and the possibility of microwave leakage is the repairs aren't done correctly.
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Mar 20, 2010 • GE Advantium SCA1001SS Convection /...
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1answer

All appears to work...fan/light/ display....but no heating occurs. I assume not a fuse problem since all but heat working. Would a bad door switch...there are three....cause this?
You have burned micro switches in the door safety interlock system. I have answered this question dozens of times here - i am surprised this answer didnt come up when you searched your problem.

There are two reasons for the heat to not come on when everything else works ... three actually, the third is expensive.

1) the capacitor has failed - dont try to service this unless and until you understand the dangers associated with this repair.

2) burned safety door switches

3) failed magnatron (they rarely fail)

remove the cover - find the door switch. Test them. With the door closed, the switches should read closed. If they read open (because they are burned because you open the door when the oven is operating) the oven doesn't know the door is closed so it will not turn the mangatron on - no magnatron - no heat.

I hope this informaation helps you ...

If you require additinal help, post to this comment.

If you are pleased, please leave positive comments

thanks for using fixya.com

a
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Oct 25, 2009 • Sharp R-316FS Microwave Oven
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1answer

Micro blow circuit
You have a faulty interlock switch. This is one of two or three switches in every microwave that are operated by the door. The interlock switch is wired to blow the fuse if you try to run the oven with the door open. The switch may have gotten knocked out of adjustment (say by slamming the oven door) or its contacts stuck closed. If there are no other problems with the oven, a new switch should clear this up.
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Mar 24, 2009 • LG LMV1630 Convection/Microwave Oven
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3answers

JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
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May 09, 2008 • Jenn-Air JMC7000 Microwave Oven
0helpful
2answers

Panasonic NN-2501 Microwave Oven range hood
It is possible that the magnatron is bad but hard to say on a no heat problem without checking all components. A lot of model give 5-7 yr warranty on that part.
Read full answer
Oct 05, 2007 • Panasonic NN-S251 Microwave Oven
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