Kenmore 106.54584400 fridge warm, air baffle No open in normal ops. in test mode opens and closes but evap fan does not run. fan motor runs during normal ops. thermistors good in test mode.

P0411 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system upstream flow The secondary air injection system does not detect the presence of air in the exhaust when introduced by the secondary air injection system.

• AIR bypass solenoid circuit open.
• AIR bypass solenoid leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed.
• Electric AIR pump - no/low air flow.
• AIR diverter valve leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed.
• AIR air hoses restricted or leaking.
• AIR vacuum hoses restricted or leaking.

In order to test the AIR pump, it must be capable of driving the HO2S lean.
A single electrical circuit open, such as an AIR bypass solenoid, in this multi-component circuit will not be detected by a PCM output driver circuit, yet it will create DTC P0411.
P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak) The PCM monitors the complete EVAP control system for no purge flow, the presence of a large fuel vapor leak, or multiple small fuel vapor leaks. System failure occurs when no purge flow (attributed to fuel vapor blockages or restrictions), a large fuel vapor leak, or multiple fuel vapor leaks are detected by the EVAP Running Loss monitor test with the engine running (but not at idle).

• After-market EVAP hardware (such as fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required specifications.
• Disconnected or cracked fuel EVAP canister tube, EVAP canister purge outlet tube, or EVAP return tube.
• EVAP canister purge valve stuck closed.
• Damaged EVAP canister.
• Damaged or missing fuel filler cap.
• Insufficient fuel filler cap installation.
• Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to the EVAP system components.
• Blockages or restrictions in the fuel vapor hoses/tubes (items also listed under disconnections or cracks).
• Fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve assembly blocked.
• Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck open.
• Mechanically inoperative fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.

Check for audible vacuum noise or significant fuel odor in the engine compartment or near the EVAP canister and fuel tank.
P0480 - Cooling Fan Electrical Malfunction
Variable Speed Electric Cooling Fan This test checks the Fan Control - Variable (FCV) output circuit. The DTC sets if the PCM detects the voltage on the FCV circuit is not within the expected range.

• FCV circuit open or shorted.
• B+ or ground circuit fault to cooling fan.
• VPWR open to cooling fan (if applicable).
• Damaged cooling fan module.
• PCM damaged.

During the KOEO self-test, the cooling fan is cycled on and off.
P0660 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV) Control Circuit Open - Bank 1 The IMTV system is monitored for failure during continuous, KOEO, or KOER self-tests. The test fails when the signal on the monitor pin is more or less than an expected calibrated range.

• IMTV signal circuit open, shorted to PWR GND or SIG RTN.
• Damaged IMTV actuator.
• Damaged PCM.

An IMTVM PID reading may indicate a fault if available.

Recheck the board wiring, and make sure the damper has power when the thermostat calls for cooling in the fridge. If there is power, it's the motor or its connection to the baffle plate. If no power, it's the board.

All the resistance values you need and the information you need should be here. lmk if you have any more questions. Hope i can be of more help if u need it!
http://www.manualsparadise.com/service-repair-manuals/Kenmore/795.78319.802-79578319802/RWSPFM-28288584-1

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

Listen to see if the fan motor is running, without the fan the air cannot circulate to the top refrigerator. If it is running then look for the baffle assy and see why its not opening. The baffle is a small door that opens and closes to keep the air going to the refrigerator from getting to cold. Basically its how the thermostat regultes the temperature in the refrigerator. Opening the baffle when it needs cold air and closing it when its cold enough. Finally check the back wall of the freezer and see if there is frost all over the back wall. If there is frost all over the back wall you are dealing with a defrost issue. Hope this helps

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp

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If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time.
To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.

the fan goes off when door opened and when closes it will turn back on is normal operation of fan and door control --as to noise --fan may be failing ---iced over ----if seal failing will cause unit to run more and allows more moisture into evap which can cause more ice over

Sounds like the start of a defrost problem, open your freezer and see if the back wall has any frost on it. if so your evap coil is in-packed with ice and it won't be long till you start to lose cooling in the freezer also. If you don't have ice on the back wall check the evap fan motor to hear if it's running ( you should hear it when u open the freezer door or feel the air movement.) note: if the evap fan motor is not running that may also cause frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If the fan is not running remove the back wall and check the fan wires for 120 volts ac.if you have power replace the motor. Also with the back wall removed you can check the defrost t-stat and defrost element you should read a closed circuit on the heater and with the evap coil frozen you will also read a closed circuit on the t-stat to. If the defrost element or t-stat check bad replace that part, if they check good replace the defrost timer. you can hit the coil with a hair dryer to thaw it out till you get the part you need, that will buy you about 3 days. Good luck hope this helps you