Question about Ovens
Stove will not turn off CHECK
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.
Oven Control Board
The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.
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Posted on Jun 26, 2015
Boone, by the sound of your post it sounds like the power relay board could be bad. If you had a stuck or shorted keypad, you should be getting a different code. The F2 code means an overheated condition. If it's a double oven it could mean a secondary board failure. The way to go on this would be to ohm out the temp sensor first. Should read about 1100 ohms at room temp. Another way to check it is to swap the bake and broil wires on the power relay board. They will be marked BA and BR. Fire the oven up again and if the bake element comes on then you know that the broil relay is stuck or shorted. Without being there to do the tests, I believe that the problem lies in the power relay board. The part number for the board is 71003431. Priced around 116.00. Jenn-Air usually has a 5 year warranty on these parts. Hope this points you in the right direction. Catriver..post back
Posted on Apr 10, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore electrical oven
Trying to better define the problem....
Do you have any cuts, holes or "shorting" or tin-foil/aluminum around your bottom bake heat-element? If so, you may need to replace the baking Heat Element. (Ensure you do not use aluminum foil around your heat element to prevent your oven from getting dirty)
To replace your baking heat element, with power off; remove 2 screws securing the bake element. Slightly tug and pull towards you for about 3 inches or so and disconnect the connecting wires at each end. Then completely remove the heat element and install new in reverse manner. Whats' you're model number?
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing) - check the amperage on
the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style -
amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If
than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not
come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage
110-120v AC. Faulty gas valve is uncommon, but still a
small possibility. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528,
WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
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