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I am completely stumped....Pressure Washer will not start I feel like I have tried everything. Please help
This had been sitting in the garage for a while without any gas in it. Bone dry!
The other day I put gas in it and checked oil and it started just fine. I pressure washed the back patio and the rear of the house ran good for about 35 mins until I ran out of gas.
Here's what happened next:
1. Added gas to tank
2. Tried to restart pressure washer - ran briefly ~15 secs then shut off
3. Checked engine oil figured oil may be low. So filled oil to full level. Also changed out the pump oil with Non-Detergent SAE 30.
4. Tried to start it - same result - started ~15 secs then shut off.
5. Checked Air filter for clog - it was clean - when I took the air filter off the foam outer part was so dry it fell apart in my hand. But the rest of the filter was clean - cleaned with an air hose and re-attached it.
6. Disconnected the Fuel Lines and blew them out with compressor.
7. Drained gas tank and blew it out with compressor - reattached and added fresh gas
8. Removed spark plug and checked it. It was the original plug ~12 years old - so I replaced it with a brand new identical plug - NGK
9. Attempted to start - started ~15 secs then shut off
10. Removed Air Filter, fuel line, and carburetor and sprayed the hell out of it with carb cleaner, then blew it all out with compressor carefully making sure I have all the parts etc.
11. Removed Carb Bowls, Float and pin, cleaned them with carb cleaner and replaced old O-rings on carb bowls and re-assembled. Checked for gas leaks - none all good
12. Attempted to restart - No Joy ! Won't even start no matter what I try. Removed and checked Spark Plug - getting good spark!! Plug not fouled clean as a whistle. Checked carb bowls they are getting gas and are full.
13. Tried starting it without the air filter on. No luck with that either. Seems like it wants to start but doesn't
14. Checked wires and wire assembly near on/off switch they appear to all be good. No breaks or frays.
Re: I am completely stumped....Pressure Washer will not...
Buy a new carburator on ebay for 20.00,the diaghram and all the rubber hoses are shot,that is what ethanol does,eiher try a rebuild kit or wait 2 days for a new one
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I would take a closer look at the fuel system and pressure - injectors are very sensitive to the correct needed values (too much or too little causes a lot of problems). I would also vertify the injectors are firing correctly - are you sure you have installed the correct ones?
Sounds like you've done everything but the injectors. Run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in a tank full of gas every time you do an oil change after this time. Also, check the fuel pressure to see if it's where should be for the injectors. But then, if it has enough pressure to go through the dirty injectors to make it run, pressure should be good. Check it anyway.
If you have what is called a "common rail diesel" I suspect that the diesel pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system at low rpm's I would suggest that you have the pump pressure tested by an accredited diesel pump shop . The faster you spin the engine then the higher the pressure generated by the pump.
If the car is in a secure area, raise the hood to vent air from the engine compartment when you park.
The symptoms sound like Vapor lock or a bad coil. Check fuelpump pressure when it acts up again.
If this vehicle has an ignition Relay, or a Fuelpump Relay, they may be affected by heat. Replace those Relays.
I am thinking the starters failed because of extreme cranking usage. Next time you replace one, get a Lifetime gaurantee.
There can be a strenuous condition for a starter when the engine is overadvanced. GM had a problem with its Crankshaft sensors which kept the Cams overadvanced and it fried the starters when the Owners tried to start their motors. But this was not due to heat and occured on cold motors too.
I hope my solution is helpful. Please rate my solution.
if still under warranty have dealer perform fuel rail residual pressure test.probably defect w/pressure regulator /check valve in fuel tank.fuel rail does not hold residual pressure so when you start after sitting for extended periods it takes time for pressure to build up and vehicle to start.
Most likely cause is the ignitor in the distributor, or the crank sensor. It may be something to try, or keep doing what you are doing till it fails completely.
What is happening is you switch is out of adjustment.Sitting in the garage you push the pedal down further so they come on.While driving you don't push it down as far or you would have wheel lock up.
Look at the top of the brake pedal and located the brake light switch. This switch just twist out then you will see a threaded stem with a lock washer on it.I will try and explain how to adjust it.
Push on it until to make the threads longer or washer closer to the switch. Then hold the brake pedal down as far as you can and reinstall the switch. Then pull up on the pedal and you will hear the switch clicking or ratching into place. This is how you adjust it.
You need to replace the Starter and Solinoid. The Solinoid comes on the New Starter. The Solinoid shorted out when the Battery Died and Damaged the Starter.
Do you have a link? Want to match up correct carb.
what motor is it make and model of sprayer
Motor is Honda 9HP - Brand is Generac Pro 30 - 3000 PSI - Model 1539-0
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=smal...
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...
Great! Thanks
your welcome
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