I have a GSS25SGPA SS refridgerator that is not dispensing water at the door. I replaced the solenoid valve and now get water all the way to the coupling at the base of the door. I see per a schematic of the door that there is another valve in the door assembly. Could that also be the issue? I've read a few places that the water lines on these models freeze periodically. Suggestions?
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Re: GE Refridgerator Not Dispensing Water
The waterline inside the door is frozen . Best way to thaw is .....1. open the door and tape the light switch down to keep the light off and the fan working . 2. tape plastic (trash bag , drycleaning bag..etc) over the entire freezer opening so the food will not thaw and the fridge will continue to work as designed . If possible 3. disconnect the water coupling behind the kickplate so air can enter , helping the door defrost cycle , or , leave the coupling connected and ocasionally walk by and press the water dispensor to see if thawed . 4. turn your freezer setting to a lower temperature ! to keep this from happening again .
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The paddle that you push the glass against to dispense water activates a microswitch. Sometimes this switch can break off it's mount and drop away from it's intended position. The microswitch operates a solenoid valve near where the water line enters the back of the fridge. Then there's the wiring in between them. The water line doesn't go through the freezer. It runs through the refrigerator in a coil of tubing then into the door of the dispenser. Check the paddle switch, the water solenoid and the wiring and you'll find the reason it doesn't work
The water control valve on rear of refrigerator is weakening. That is typical sound for a coil that opens the side that dispenses water or ice tray refills to vibrate or buzz when weakening. If I had you r model number I could give you the part number. They are not expensive and easy to replace. Thanks, Sea Breeze
WAS IT LEAKING FROM INSIDE THE FREEZER OR FROM BOTTOM OF FRIDGE? ONCE IN A WHILE YOU NEED TO TAKE OUT THE ICE BIN AND DUMP ICE OUT AND CLEAN IT. HOW CAN THE ICE MACHINE OVERFLOW WITH ICE WHEN THE ICE IN THE TRAY WON'T BUDGE? NEED CLARIFICATION. SOUNDS LIKE YOU EITHER HAVE A BAD ICE MAKER MODULE OR THE SOLENOID FOR THE ICE ON THE WATER VALVE IS BAD.
Most of the time it is the half of the dual water control valve on rear of refrigerator. The part number Click Here=> WR57X10032 Usually the coil on that side will go bad before buttons or controls. You can test that side by setting a test meter on AC voltage and you should read 120 volts while someone presses dispense water on front. There are two sides one plugs into icemaker side and other water dispenser. When replaced they both come as a kit. If you would like you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, Thanks, Sea Breeze
I have a gsl25jfpe bs ge regrigerator and the baffle motor that controls air flow from the freezer to the refrigerator is out. This had been causing everthing in the fridge to freeze and cause the water to stop working due to water freezing in the storage tank. The baffle is in the back top of the fridge covered with a plastic cover. Remove plastic cover to check baffle function.
It sounds as though you may have a 'dodgey' water solenoid valve which is allowing a constant flow through the valve. When the water enters the cabinet it goes into a double solenoid valve which splits the suply to the ice machine and the water supply. This valve can get limescale build up preventing it from closing properly. This is really the only control you have over the water supply. The solution I would suggest is replacing this valve. However I would suggest getting a professional to do this as you would then get some sort of guarantee on the work carried out. This valve is located on the rear of the cabinet normally on the RHS. Hope this is of some help.
I have the same model and have had to clear frozen water lines frequently. There is nothing in the line between the bottom coupling and the outlet. The only thing I have had work consistently is turning off the freezer and letting the line thaw. I have never tried to get inside the door. Light suction from the upper end, such as by a vacuum pump, with the lower end of the hose out of the coupling and placed in a pan of hot water, will sometimes speed the process. I'm about ready to replace the entire refrigerator.