Does 2005 Nissan maximum have an bleeding screw

Some people tend to jump into conclusion that all slave cyilinders are the same. A nissan np200 cluch release bearing is different it comes with a nipple with a dust cover but no screw on it. So the question is cause how do you bleed it dou you have someone pump and press the pedal them uou open the dust cover or what cause I still repeat it doesnt have a screw.

if it has an external slave cylinder , bleed it at the bleed screw
If it has a composite slave cylinder( one that is inside the bell housing) there will be a bleed screw attached to the outside of the housing on on the end of a hose on the outside of the bell housing.
either way bleeding process is the same for an external slave cylinder.

the value of the bleeder is about,,,,,two fiddy

Trapped air in the coolant might cause that. Is there a coolant air bleed screw on or around the thermostat housing? Crack it open with engine running and see if any air comes out.
If no air bleed screw, find a fitting in the top most place on the engine that is in the water passages-the air if any will be at the top. The temperature gauge sender might work: if you loosen a fitting, just crack it open so air could escape, engine running. Once only coolant comes out, tighten the fitting.
Don't know what else would cause the gauge to float, unless it was heating unevenly. How hot does it get? Overheating or not?
If the engine is running hot, consider having a block test- a simple test, should be inexpensive, where they test for exhaust gases in the coolant, drawing radiator fumes into a container with a special fluid that changes color in the presence of hydrocarbons. And you know what that means: leaking head gasket.

By removing the water pump obviously alot of water has drained out therefore you need to prime the air out of the complete water system at the radiator. The coolant leaking out is caused by the hot air rising to escape out the coolant bottle the only exit point.With the engine switched off, alocate a bleed screw on the top or on the side of the radiator and open that screw.Then keep pouring water into the coolant bottle until you see air escaping from the bleed screw.Once the air stops releasing and only water then spurts out, close the bleed screw. The system is now 95% primed. Start the engine and let her idle then open the bleed screw again, if only water spurts out for about 5 seconds then the system is completely primed. If there is still air coming out you can rev the engine a bit to circulate the water faster and then the system will bleed quicker(Not forgetting of course to top up the bottle replacing the lost water from bleeding) as soon as there is only water shooting out the bleeder, close the bleeder and top up the bottle to the maximum mark only. If ever you over top beyond the maximum mark just open the bleed screw to let out some water until it drops to the maximum mark and then close.The system is now fully bled. Problem solved.

Hi,
The bleeding nipple would be near the water pump rad hose inlet and beneath the thermostat valve cover.
Bleeding is easy, just fill up the radiator and the reservoir w/ coolant run the engine for 5 min and open the bleeding nipples! or Just fill up the radiator before u start the engine, early morning, run the engine for 5 min. untill the thermostat valve opens, open the radiator cap( use a wet rag ), carefull not to open it instantly! Fill up the radiator while the engine runs, add coolant while u slightly reving up the engine.
Do these and open the heater to maximum, air might be inside the core too!
Hope that helps u out!

The slave cylinder on the transmission flywheel housing has a bleed screw. Fill the clutch reservoir on the master cylinder to 'max'. Have a friend depress the clutch pedal and keep it pressed. Open the bleed screw half a turn to release the air and then lightly re-tighten the bleed screw . Ask for the pedal to be released then depressed fully again and held there. Again release the bleed screw half a turn to release air bubbles. Keep repeating the above cycles until no more air is forthcoming and then tighten the bleed screw firmly. Your done

check the operating flap ,it doesnt need bleeding as its self bleeding

Having owned a Stanza for over 10 years, there is not a coolant bleeder screw on that car that I'm aware of. I just run the car with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens, then add coolant as the level inside the radiator drops and the air gets circulated out, then replace the cap. After the car totally cools off, add coolant as needed to the overflow bottle, to bring it up to the recommend maximum level. Always worked for me.