First thing to check after you turn the washer on, wait a few minutes & see if door locks, if it does not lock then it is the door lock solenoid (Sometimes called the wax motor). I have found if the door lock solenoid has burnt out it has damaged the control board. (usually burt a track off the board which can be repaired) I always fit a 5 amp fuse inline with the solenoid when fitting new part. That way when the solenoid burns out again it only blows the fuse. Also check t5he micro switch on the door lock mechanism.
WASHER WILL NOT START:
Power
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
Lid Switch
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
Door Interlock
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Timer Knob
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Overheating
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
SOURCE: Door lock
Run a diagnostic on the door lock system; To place the unit in "service mode", close the door completely then press and hold both the "Delicates" and "Heavy Soils" keys for three seconds. Motor speed will be displayed. Press "rinse" to access the main board output function. Then press "max extract"... this is the test for the door lock. Did it lock? To exit, press "max extract" again and then both "Delicates" and "Heavy Soils" for three seconds. VOLTAGE TESTS AHEAD!!! IF YOU AREN'T SURE YOU CAN DO IT, THEN DON'T! CALL A PROFESSIONAL! If the door did not lock, you'll need a voltmeter and an hour or so. Open the door, remove the screws holding the door hinges, then remove the 2 screws (and shims) opposite the door hinges and close the door (do not take it off). Then grasp the front panel at the top near where it meets the top panel and pull toward you quickly. Lean it forward and remove it from the 2 clips at the bottom. Just below the top panel, now exposed, are the top panel retainers... use a 5/16" to remove the one screw on both sides and remove the retainer clips. Now lift the top panel up just like the hood of a car. You can now see the door latch assy. Remove the 2 wires on the solenoid and insert your meter probes into each one of them (color doesn't matter). Set your meter to read AC Voltage, then re-enter "Service Mode" and follow the steps to door lock test. When you hit the "Max Extract" key, 120 volts should be sent to the meter. If you get 120 volts, your latch assy. has failed and should be replaced. If you don't get 120 volts, your control board output has failed and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: maytag neptune front loader
I would say that you have damaged your door lock. Most appliances have a door lock or a mico switch. this is the first port of call for the power to supply the w/machine.Safety measures??? go back to basics,is the door locking, any power to the going to the electronics. a door. Change faulty components???
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune MAH5500BWW Dont Wont Open
There is a cord you can pull under the soap tray.
Read here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/neptune3.html#lock
SOURCE: Maytag neptune MLG2000AWW does not turn off at end of spin cycle
d sounds as if your having a timer issue here. not recognizing the end of cycle and entering a new one ( bad timer).. as far as time of unlocking this is normal, theres a wax motor holding the door shut for i believe 3 min's.. and the water sloshing sounds is also normal they use a "water filled" balance ring around the perimeter of tub to help with the overall balance of machine
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